Arezzo – Siena’s charming little sister

While tourists flock to Florence during the high season and Siena is the focus of attention for travelers to Tuscany due to its famous Palio and its cathedral made of black and white marble, Arezzo is often forgotten on the to-do list. Yet it is a city that captivates with its character and quiet beauty. It is one of my favorite places in Tuscany, not only because I found my second home nearby.

Arezzo in northern Tuscany has no less to offer than its famous neighbors Siena and Florence. The cityscape is similar to Siena, only smaller and more cozy because it is less crowded. As in Siena, the heart of the city is the Piazza Grande—a sloping square framed by medieval buildings, the Vasari Loggia, and Baroque palazzi.

It is the heart of the city. Here and in the surrounding streets, Italy’s largest and oldest antiques market, the “Fiera Antiquaria di Arezzo” takes place every first weekend of the month. Countless stalls offer collections of rare items, fabulous collectibles, curiosities, and wonderful antique and modern furniture. The streets are then teeming with dealers, collectors, and curious visitors browsing the stalls for forgotten treasures. Tired from walking around, you can then relax in one of the small, cozy restaurants under the arcades and enjoy delicious Italian food. In high season, it is better to reserve in advance!

Spectacle from the Middle Ages

Twice a year—every third Sunday in June and every first Sunday in September—the Piazza Grande becomes the stage for the Giostra del Saracino. Anyone who has heard of the Palio in Siena or has even been there will experience something similar here in Arezzo. This ancient jousting tournament, mentioned by Dante Alighieri (Italian poet, 1265-1321), is every bit as impressive as the Palio in Siena. Piazza Grande in Arezzo is specially prepared for this medieval competition by covering the square diagonally with a track of compacted sand

In the traditional jousting tournament, riders in armor representing the four districts (Porta Crucifera, Porta del Foro, Porta Sant’Andrea, and Porta Santo Spirito) compete against each other for the golden lance. They are accompanied by fanfares, drums, and an enthusiastic audience. Almost everywhere in Arezzo, the different flags of the competing districts fly in the wind. The winner and his district are awarded the golden lance, which has been elaborately blessed in Arezzo Cathedral. If you want to find out more about the Giostra and the historical costumes, there is a free permanent exhibition in the town hall on Piazza della Libertá.

Arezzo has a long history

Unlike many other historical sites in Italy, Arezzo has been continuously inhabited. The Etruscans founded the city, which they called “Aritim,” and shaped it with their metalworking skills. Even today, the chimera found in Arezzo in 1553 remains a symbol of the city. The famous Etruscan bronze statue dates back to the 4th or 5th century BC. Today, replicas of the mythical creature, a hybrid of a lion, goat, and snake, can be found in several places around the city, while the masterpiece of Etruscan bronze casting is housed in the National Archaeological Museum in Florence.

Speaking of metalworking, the city is still a center for jewelry making today. You will often come across workshops where delicate pieces are crafted by hand. These are often family-run businesses, some of which have been around for generations. Every year, designers and retailers from all over the world travel to Arezzo for the OroArezzo jewelry fair

At the time of the Twelve Cities League, a loose alliance of the most important Etruscan city-states, Arezzo was of great importance for flourishing trade and early power politics in central Italy. Remains of the amphitheater and city walls still bear witness to its time as the Roman colony of Arretium. In the Middle Ages, Arezzo became a spiritual and artistic center. The poet Francesco Petrarca was born here, as was the architect and creator of the Uffizi Gallery in Florence, Giorgio Vasari. One of the city’s most famous sons is the Renaissance artist Piero della Francesca. Art lovers from all over the world still travel to Arezzo to admire his fresco cycle “La leggenda della Vera Croce” (“The Legend of the True Cross”) in the Basilica of San Francesco.

Popular film location

The 13th-century Gothic Basilica of San Francesco can be seen in a sequence in the film “The English Patient.” However, the interior shots featuring the famous frescoes by Piero della Francesca were recreated at the Cinecittà Studios in Rome. Roberto Benigni’s moving film “Life Is Beautiful” was also shot in Arezzo. In the Oscar-winning drama, you will immediately recognize the Piazza Grande, the narrow streets, and the old stone steps of the city.

Unique cityscape

The many churches also contribute to this. Considering the size of the city, Arezzo seems to have almost as many places of worship as Rome. The exact total number is not clearly documented, but the city looks back on a rich ecclesiastical history. Among the most famous clerical buildings are the the and the Church of Santa Maria della Pieve.

Art and culture

Those interested in art will quickly find what they are looking for in Arezzo. There is an art exhibition in the Palazzo della Fraternita dei Laici on Piazza Grande. The bell tower offers a fabulous view of the piazza. The magnificent Palazzo dei Priori near the cathedral is home to the town hall and the seat of the municipality of Arezzo. Directly at the entrance, in a niche, there is a replica of the famous chimera, and in the palazzo you can view an exhibition featuring various frescoes and statues, among other things.

The amphitheater from Roman times, or rather what remains of it, is located just outside the city. The site is completely fenced off, but behind it is the archaeological museum, where many excavated artifacts are on display. Here you can gain an insight into the history of the city during the Etruscan and Roman periods.

Shopping in the old town

The elegant old town of Arezzo is the perfect place to max out your credit card. Boutiques selling international and Italian labels (such as Sugar and Voga) alternate with arts and crafts, leather goods, and local shops. They offer plenty of variety amid the sandstone-colored palazzi lining the city’s streets. The main shopping street is Corso Italia, a first-class promenade with a large selection of cafés (always referred to as bars in Italy), restaurants, and ice cream parlors. The Corso is also ideal for people watching. Incidentally, the well-dressed people are almost always Italians. The small side streets should not be overlooked either. The intersection of Via Cavour is also lined with shops, as is Via Garibaldi.

These 10 points belong on your to-do list in Arezzo

The Antiques Fair · 2. Piazza Grande · 3. Cathedral of Saints Donato and Pietro · 4. The Medici Fortress · 5. Basilica of San Francesco · 6. Church of Santa Maria della Pieve · 7. Giostra del Saracino · 8. Gaio Cilnio Mecenate National Archaeological Museum · 9. The State Museum of Medieval and Contemporary Art · 10. Casa Vasari Museum

Photos: „Giostra del Saracino“ (2)