Malta – The Small Island with a Grand History

This archipelago in the Mediterranean holds some surprising “Lilliputian” records: With an area of 316 square kilometers, it’s about the same size as Munich. Its capital, Valletta, is the smallest in Europe. And there are 6,000-year-old archaeological sites that even surpass the Egyptian pyramids.

In Malta, even the approach to the airport makes it clear: this is a typical Mediterranean archipelago—an island nation that includes not only Malta but also Gozo and Comino, along with a few tiny uninhabited islands, which are really more like rocks jutting out of the sea. The location: Just 90 kilometers south of Sicily, 295 kilometers north of the African coast. That promises sunshine (reportedly 300 days a year) and heat. Plus, strong winds year-round, which make even high temperatures quite pleasant.

Take the water taxi to Valletta

Our hotel Verdi is located in the coastal town of Slema (www.verdihotels.com/gzira) and is not only a pleasant place to stay, but also ideally situated for seeing as much as possible. The easiest way to do this would be by rental car. But traffic is heavy, traffic jams are often long, and parking spaces are scarce. And they drive on the left—a nod to the long-standing British colonial rule. How fortunate that in Malta you can not only explore a lot on foot, but also get from A to B wonderfully by public transportation, whether by bus or boat.

Even the first trip to Valletta shows that the decision against renting a car was the right one: a water taxi takes you to the capital in just ten minutes. The boat seats just five to six people, who are strategically placed by the resourceful ferryman depending on their weight and the swell. By the way, everyone communicates in excellent English—the second official language of the country, alongside the highly complex Maltese.

Narrow streets and plenty of culture

Countless narrow, winding alleys—often leading steeply up and down staircases—define Valletta’s cityscape. This labyrinth naturally channels cool air from the coast into the city. Now, in May, with temperatures a mild 22 degrees, we don’t need this refreshing effect just yet, but in the summer, amid tropical heat, it’s sure to be very pleasant.

Passing countless small chapels and churches, we head toward the center, to St. John’s Co-Cathedral, the original main church of the Order of St. John. Built between 1572 and 1577, its interior surprises with an abundance of gold, opulent Baroque elements, and even original paintings by Caravaggio.

The floor of the church is dotted with some 400 marble monuments marking the graves of knights and dignitaries. No wonder the cathedral is one of Valletta’s main attractions. When cruise ships dock in the harbor (and they practically always do), huge crowds of visitors flock to the site. How nice that with an online ticket, you can skip the line…

Relaxing in the Barakka Gardens

After touring the Grand Master’s Palace, the National Library, and the Triton Fountain with its mythological sea creatures (half-human, half-fish), we treat ourselves to a breather in the Fortress Gardens. A true green oasis, densely covered with Mediterranean cypresses, colorful oleanders, bougainvilleas, and hibiscus plants, as well as huge calla lilies. And the best views of the Mediterranean Sea.

As if by magic, we’re drawn back to the ship, this time aboard a steamboat circling the harbor. We glide through the azure waters along rocky beaches, past the historic fortress of St. Elmo. Again and again, we cross harbor basins from which we can glimpse neighborhoods with colorful houses—and, of course, the inevitable giant cruise ships.

Across the island by bus

For trips further afield, the hop-on, hop-off bus is a great option, as it also serves the more remote corners of the island. You can easily get on and off at the various stops. The schedule isn’t always reliable—after all, the bus gets stuck in traffic from time to time. Still, we get to see quite a bit of the Maltese landscape.

At first glance, it doesn’t look very appealing, with hardly any greenery and lots of rocks. After all, Malta and its sister islands consist largely of porous limestone, which takes on sometimes bizarre shapes due to weathering. And it forms rugged cliffs that characterize the typical Maltese coastline. In between, there are a few olive groves, vineyards, and grain fields that nature has managed to carve out.

That’s how we end up in Mdina, the old Maltese capital and filming location for the hit series Game of Thrones as well as Gladiator II. Officially, the name means “City of Silence.” That may be true very early in the morning or in the depths of winter. On most days, however, Mdina is a huge tourist magnet with its winding alleys, monasteries, and churches. Things are a bit quieter in Rabat, just a short walk away. We explore the Domus Romana, an aristocratic townhouse from the 1st century B.C. featuring typical everyday objects from that era and magnificent marble floors.

The oldest temples in the world

Want to go even further back in history? No problem in Malta. The megalithic temples of Ħaġar Qim and Mnajdra on the southwest coast are estimated to date from between 3,600 and 2,500 B.C. They stand in seclusion, surrounded by nature. And they are just as much a part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site as the even older Ggantija Temple, which we’ll discover later on the neighboring island of Gozo.

In fact, these stone structures from the Megalithic period are estimated to be about 1,000 years older than the Egyptian pyramids at Giza and, at 5,800 years old, are considered the oldest freestanding, reasonably well-preserved buildings in the world. They’re also beautifully presented with numerous informational signs, giving us a fascinating history lesson.

Delicious snacks—and lots of fish

History makes you hungry—and Malta is well-prepared for that, too. In addition to English fish and chips, Italian pasta, and pizza, there are unique local specialties. Ftira, for example, is a crispy, baked flatbread filled with sweet custard. Or savory versions with tomatoes, onions, tuna, and olives. They’re just as filling as the buttery pastizzi—puff pastry pockets filled with ham, ricotta, curry, or spinach. They’re also often filled with goat cheese, which is produced mainly on Gozo. Prefer something sweet? The Maltese love a sugary filling with plenty of Nutella.

Otherwise, stews are often on the menu. Often featuring rabbit—and, of course, fish, which (hopefully) comes from the Mediterranean. It certainly does in the little village of Marsaxlokk, famous for its colorful Sunday fish market. Getting there early is a top priority; otherwise, it quickly gets too crowded and too hot. So we treated ourselves to a taxi ride—with Bolt, which is incredibly widespread in Malta. At 7 a.m., it’s mostly locals who are there, haggling with the fishermen for the best prices on sardines, moray eels, mussels, and tuna. Leading the pack are the restaurant owners from Marsaxlokk, who start conjuring up the best fish dishes on your plate starting at noon—and there’s plenty of demand.

Of course, the crystal-blue sea also attracts swimmers. For most people, the water temperature—which feels like 16 degrees—is still far too cold—at least for me. But the typical swimming spots, such as Golden Bay, the Blue Lagoon on Comino, the Blue Hole, or Xlendi Beach on Gozo, are also real visual highlights—and easily accessible via a boat tour. They make you want to see more of Malta—maybe next time when the water’s warm enough for swimming?