Marrakech and Morocco After the 2023 Earthquake

Marrakech was founded in the 11th century. For a long time, the city was an important stop on the trans-Saharan trade routes connecting North Africa, the Middle East, and Europe. Even today, at every turn, you encounter the history and surprises of this ancient city—but unfortunately also houses destroyed by the 2023 earthquake.

Marrakech was not the epicenter of the earthquake at that time. The epicenter was located about 70 kilometers away in the Atlas Mountains in Marocco. Shortly after 11 p.m. on September 8, 2023, the earth shook. The damage was immense. Nearly 3,000 people died, about 300,000 were left homeless, and 60,000 buildings were destroyed or damaged. Among them was a 12th-century mosque in Tinmel, considered one of Morocco’s most significant structures. The tremors, measuring 6.8 on the Richter scale, were felt as far away as Marrakesh. Tourists are now strolling through the city again, but in the mountains, people are still living in tents, and ruins bear witness to the disaster. The mostly farming families in the destroyed mountain villages remain dependent on aid to this day.

Souks in Marrakech

Even today, every stroll through the labyrinthine alleys serves as a reminder of the devastating earthquake, especially when you once again come across a pile of rubble that was once a house where people lived or worked. Yet Marrakesh has lost none of its charm.

At the heart of the city are the souks in the medina. A sensory experience full of diverse sights, sounds, and smells. The adventure begins at Jemaa el Fnaa, the square in the heart of the city and one of Marrakech’s most important historical landmarks. In 1985, the entire medina was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

In Arab countries, particularly in North Africa and the Middle East, a “souk” refers to an open-air market. Souks are filled with stalls and shops where vendors sell a wide variety of goods—from souvenirs and jewelry to spices and perfume. The various commercial areas blend seamlessly into one another within the medina.

Considered the most important souk in Marrakech, primarily due to its central location, is the Souk Semmarine, right next to Djemaa el Fna Square, also known as the Jugglers’ Square. Here you can find just about everything from pottery to fabrics to souvenirs. The Souk El Attarine is famous for spices and perfumes, and the Souk des Bijoutiers for elaborate jewelry and traditional handicrafts. The largest selection of the famous babouches—traditional Moroccan leather slippers—can be found in the Souk Smata near the Ben Youssef Madrasa.

And don’t forget: Bargaining is the norm in Morocco’s souks. Only closed shops usually have fixed prices. But always stay friendly when negotiating, and just walk away if you can’t agree on a price. Since street names are rarely posted, the labyrinth of winding alleys can often be confusing. To help you find your way around, download maps offline and use the GPS on your phone. If a “guide” offers to show you the way or give you a tour, a tip is expected at the end.

To avoid giving pickpockets a chance, it’s best to carry a lockable crossbody bag, avoid keeping your wallet in your back pocket, and hold your cell phone securely or wear it around your neck. Arabic is the most widely spoken language in Morocco, but many vendors in the souks also speak French, some speak English, and a few even speak a little Spanish.

A breather at Jemaa el Fnaa

Cafés and restaurants line the square, often with a rooftop offering a fascinating panoramic view of the city. My favorite spot for breakfast and people-watching—tourists and street performers alike—is Cafe Kessabine. t’s a super cozy place to relax and enjoy traditional Moroccan cuisine, tea, and cinnamon coffee. They also serve cappuccino. And in the late afternoon, this is a great spot to watch the hustle and bustle.

As soon as the sun sets in Marrakech, it’s customary for locals and tourists alike to head to the city square to enjoy the local nightlife. While Jemaa el Fnaa is a gathering place for street performers and fortune-tellers during the day, at night it transforms into a lively hub with casual restaurants. Tables and benches are set up, and you can get your food from the numerous food stalls.

Once the largest Koranic school

Another highlight of the city is the Medersa Ben Youssef, nestled within the labyrinth of souks; it surprises visitors with its tranquility, symmetry, and splendor. Once the largest Koranic school (madrasa) in Morocco and all of North Africa, it’s a must-see on any bucket list. Founded in the 14th century and magnificently rebuilt in the 16th century by Sultan Abdallah al-Ghalib, it is considered a masterpiece of Moorish craftsmanship: Zellij mosaics, cedar wood, fine stucco, and Arabic calligraphy frame a tranquil inner courtyard. The building was closed for an extended period due to restoration work and has been open again since 2022—more magnificent than ever.

I find that the complex, with its harmonious Moorish-style architecture, exudes a quiet majesty. Light floods in through the intricately decorated windows. In the courtyard, the water basin surrounded by arcades reflects the delicate carvings and the ornate, colorful mosaics that tell of a bygone golden age. Once, up to 800 students studied Quranic verses, philosophy, and astronomy here. Today, the former Quranic school is one of Marrakech’s most impressive sights. Admission for adults: 50 Dh; children (under 12): 10 Dh. (50 dirhams = approx. 5 euros = 5 USD)

A secret garden in the Medina

It’s unbelievable—that’s what you think when you discover the „Le Jardin Secret“ behind the blank walls of Rue Mouassine. Commonly known as Riad Loukrissi, it was once the magnificent residence of Qaid U-Bihi, head of the Haha tribe, and boasted one of the tallest towers in the Medina. For decades, the garden—spanning several thousand square meters—lay abandoned until it was magnificently restored.

In fact, the garden is divided into two distinct, contrasting areas: The Islamic Garden is a classic, symmetrical paradise garden in the Islamic tradition, divided into four zones and characterized by waterways and fruit trees. The Exotic (Tropical) Garden features lush greenery with a wide variety of rare plants and trees from different continents around the world.

After eight years of renovation work, visitors are now greeted by a gem in the purest Muslim tradition. This site preserves ancient structures of exceptional cultural value, linked to the art of gardens, architecture, and Arab hydraulic engineering. The lively centerpiece of the garden is a fountain at the intersection of the paths; two paths lined with zelliges (tiles) separate four irrigated flower beds from one another.

The water is channeled through a khettara system, a hydraulic system over a hundred years old that fascinates with its engineering ingenuity. Le Jardin Secret also features a boutique, a bookstore, and two cafés. Admission: 100 Dh – 50 Dh for Moroccans and locals. Additional ticket for the observation tower: 40 Dh.

Relax at the hammam

Tired from all that walking? And in the medina, you really do cover quite a few kilometers. Then a visit to Pure bliss Hammam & Traditional Spa is just what you need. It’s also located in the heart of the medina, not far from the “Secret Garden” on Rue Mouassine. It’s not just a wellness retreat, but also a riad with nine rooms, each decorated in its own unique style. From the panoramic restaurant on the rooftop terrace, you can admire the valleys of the Atlas Mountains, La Palmeraie, and the city’s magnificent colors.

At the spa and hammam, you can immerse yourself in the secrets of Moroccan bathing rituals. Highly trained staff are always on hand to assist you. A wide variety of full-body treatments and massages from head to toe are offered in a relaxing atmosphere. Yoga classes are held daily on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays from 9 to 10 a.m. on the rooftop.

The Hatha & Vinyasa asanas guarantee a morning yoga flow with a mix of active poses and stretching exercises to warm up the body (60 min., 150 Dh per person, yoga mat included). Massages start at 320 Dh for 30 minutes; hammam with black soap and exfoliation, 30 min., 150 Dh.

Immerse yourself in a magical world

Anyone visiting Marrakech should also explore the surrounding area. A trip to the Ourika Valley to visit Andre Heller-Garten Anima iis well worth the time and money. There’s a free shuttle service. The bus departs from the La Koutoubia parking lot (behind the Koutoubia Mosque). The trip takes 40 minutes, and you’ll get to see plenty of the fascinating landscape along the way. Admission to the Heller Garden costs 120 Dh for adults; children ages 12–16 pay 60 Dh. Children under 12 accompanied by an adult enter for free. If you want to see more of the High Atlas Mountains and the mountain villages, it’s best to hire a driver. Be sure to negotiate the number of hours and the price in advance.

Anima is a three-hectare, opulent botanical creation by the Austrian multidisciplinary artist André Heller, built on the site of a former rose farm. Shortly after its opening in 2016, the garden was already described as one of the most beautiful and imaginative gardens in the world. It is indeed a magical place of sensuality, wonder, contemplation, and joy—and a source of inspiration for people of all ages seeking an unforgettable experience.

Visitors are greeted by a perfect blend of plants and art. The botanical garden is bursting with colors, shapes, lush tropical greenery, and colorful handicrafts that surprise you at every turn. As you stroll along the artfully laid-out paths, you can’t get enough of the blooming details and sculptures. Water ripples in between, and in the background, the snow-capped Atlas Mountains rise as a breathtaking backdrop. Refreshments are available at Café Marocain Paul Bowles, where fresh fruit juices, tea, and dishes made with ingredients straight from the garden are served.

Day trip to the Ourika Valley

The Ourika Valley (Arabic: وادي أوريكا, DMG: wādī aūrīkā) is a mountain valley on the northern side of the High Atlas. It is traversed by the Oued Ourika River, which significantly shapes the green valley with its rocky terraces. The valley, situated at an elevation of approximately 1,400 to 1,500 meters, begins about 30 kilometers southeast of Marrakesh near the village of Souk Tnine de l’Ourika and extends another 25 kilometers to the south.

Visitors can explore traditional Berber villages and the majestic natural scenery of the High Atlas. Among the highlights of the Ourika Valley is Setti Fatma at the end of the valley, with its famous waterfalls. It is a popular starting point for climbing tours. Berber villages with their traditional mud-brick houses nestle against the steep slopes of the High Atlas. Visits to local markets and women’s argan oil cooperatives are on every guide’s itinerary. Be careful with the prices of argan oil products, which are offered there after a lengthy presentation about the cooperative. They’re usually very overpriced! You can get there by rental car, grand taxi, or on a guided day tour. The Ourika Valley is about 45 to 60 minutes from Marrakech.

Dining the traditional way

After a day of sightseeing, there are various ways to satisfy your hunger in Marrakech. „Le Trou au Mur“ is chic, relaxed, and cozy, and was long considered one of the Medina’s best-kept secrets. And indeed, the restaurant is so well hidden that it’s not easy to find. That’s why it’s best to have someone familiar with the area take you there and pick you up again.

The restaurant features stylish, intriguing interior décor and an airy rooftop terrace. The menu offers a selection of traditional Moroccan dishes that other restaurants often consider too labor-intensive. These carefully researched family recipes are rarely found outside of private homes. Take, for example, the signature Meshoui lamb, which is incredibly tender and rich in local flavors. For anyone who can’t resist another serving of tajine, there’s the “Tajine of the Day.” Those longing for a taste of home can order a gourmet burger or a classic international home-style dish.

For me, La Terrasse des épices. des épices is a must on any trip to Marrakech. The open-air restaurant in the Souk Cherifia invites you to enjoy a quiet and relaxing moment—both at lunch and dinner. From the rooftop terrace, you can enjoy a fabulous panoramic view of the Atlas Mountains and the nearby Koutoubia minaret. The Moroccan-Mediterranean fusion cuisine is based on fresh, regional ingredients, which are grown with respect for people and nature.

When is the best time to visit?

To enjoy Marrakech without the crowds, you should plan your trip for early September. During the transition from summer to fall, there’s very little rain, and temperatures are mild. The days are still long and warm enough for all kinds of activities. So it’s perfect weather for sightseeing and everything that takes place outdoors, like the hustle and bustle of Jemaa el Fnaa and the medina.

Later in the fall, it can get very crowded again, as the high season typically runs from September through November. But during the first few weeks of fall, the crowds are still manageable. It’s best to book tickets in advance for popular attractions like Yves Saint Laurent’s Majorelle Garden and the adjacent museum, or for tours to the Ourika Valley.