Retinol Versus Retinal—Which Works Better For The Skin?

Both active ingredients belong to the retinoid group and are forms of vitamin A. Both have been used in skin care for decades and are popular for their anti-aging effects. They are particularly effective in reducing the visible signs of aging, reducing wrinkles, and tightening the skin. But which should you choose: retinol or retinal?

Retinol and retinal make the skin firmer and more elastic. Due to their small molecular size, they can easily penetrate the uppermost layer of skin (epidermis) and stimulate the cells to produce more collagen and elastin. In this way, retinoids help to reduce wrinkles and visually rejuvenate the skin. The collagen-stimulating effect was scientifically investigated as early as the 1990s, as documented in a meta-study from 2006.

In addition to their firming properties, retinoids also have antioxidant power. By intercepting harmful free radicals in the cells, they protect against premature skin aging. They also have a mild exfoliating component that removes dead skin cells and accelerates the cell renewal process. Not only does the complexion take on a rosy appearance, but sebum production is also reduced and the skin barrier is strengthened.

What is the difference between retinol and retinal?

Both forms of vitamin A can improve skin condition when used regularly. They also have in common that they do not take effect immediately, but only after they have been converted into retinoic acid. This is the most active form of vitamin A. This is also where the difference between the two substances lies: retinal is converted directly into retinoic acid, while retinol requires two synthesis steps: it is first converted into retinal and then into retinoic acid. This means that the faster conversion process allows retinal to work faster and more effectively. Conclusion: retinal is the more active retinoid.

A meta-study from 2022 provides scientific confirmation of this. It states that even a comparatively low concentration of 0.05 percent retinal is sufficient to visibly improve the skin. For retinol, concentrations between 0.25 and 0.3 percent are recommended. Although retinal is more potent, it is still well tolerated by the skin. Researchers say that retinal has a favorable efficacy-tolerance ratio even at higher concentrations. With retinol, on the other hand, redness, dry patches, and itching are more common, especially at the beginning of treatment. The higher the concentration of the active ingredient, the more likely these skin reactions are to occur.

Start with low concentrations

Although retinal is considered to be well tolerated, this does not mean that the skin cannot react to it with irritation. To avoid provoking unwanted reactions, retinoid beginners should take a slow approach when incorporating such a product into their skincare routine. This means starting with low concentrations and increasing them gradually. You should also refrain from daily use in the first few weeks; two to three times a week is better. It is best to use it in the evening and be sure to apply UV protection during the day, as all retinoids make the skin more sensitive to light.

Not suitable for sensitive skin

If you have extremely sensitive skin, you should not use retinol or retinal. In this case, you can try a product containing retinol ester. This precursor to retinol is particularly gentle because it has to undergo more synthesis steps before it takes effect. Retinol ester is available in the form of retinyl palmitate or retinyl retinoate, for example.

“In my opinion, retinyl palmitate is the least effective form of vitamin A. This substance has to be converted three times in the skin before it can take effect. Roughly speaking, the more often a substance has to be converted, the less effective it is,” says Dr. Jetske Ultee, a research physician in cosmetic dermatology from Rotterdam.

Retinyl palmitate is also extremely sensitive to sunlight. Exposure to sunlight rapidly reduces its effectiveness and can also cause harmful free radicals to form in the skin. Therefore, products containing retinyl palmitate should only be used in the evening.

Dr. Ultee: “Retinyl retinoate is also a new variant of the vitamin. Apart from the fact that it only needs to be converted once, we know little about its effectiveness and stability compared to retinaldehyde. The only studies https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21435021/
have been conducted by the Korean manufacturers themselves. However, retinyl retinoate is more stable than retinol.”

Bakuchiol, the plant-based retinol

Bakuchiol is a plant-based active ingredient extracted from the leaves and seeds of the babchi plant (Psoralea corylifolia), which is native to Asia. The oil is considered a gentle alternative to retinol. Although the substance was launched on the market in 2007, it has only been used in skin care for a few years. It supports collagen production, stimulates cell renewal, and reduces the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and dark spots. As an antioxidant, it neutralizes aggressive oxygen compounds (free radicals) in the cells. A 2014 study confirmed that bakuchiol has the same effect as retinol despite its different chemical structure.

The correct application

It depends on the type of product you use. Bakuchiol is available as a cream, serum, or oil. If you use a water-based texture, apply it as the first or second step in your skincare routine; a facial oil containing bakuchiol is applied last. Both can be used in the morning and evening. The advantage of using it in the evening is that cells regenerate during sleep, and bakuchiol can support this process. In the morning, it leaves the skin looking fresh and rosy. Another advantage is that it does not make the skin more sensitive to light. Nevertheless, you should not forego sun protection during the day.

New EU regulation for retinol

The plant-based alternative bakuchiol will become even more interesting when the new EU regulation on retinol comes into force. It stipulates that retinol and retinyl esters in body lotions will be limited to 0.05 percent and in facial products to 0.3 percent. Until now, there has been no upper limit, which is why many of these facial cosmetics contain up to one percent of the active ingredient. However, remaining stocks of these products may still be sold until the end of 2026.

This does not mean that retinol itself is dangerous. The EU regulation is purely a precautionary measure, as vitamin A can be harmful to health if taken in excessive doses over a long period of time. Possible consequences include dry skin, hair loss, liver damage, weakened bones, and visual disturbances. Considering that most people already consume the recommended daily dose of vitamin A (three milligrams) through their diet, additional intake from retinol-containing creams and serums could increase this by a quarter. The EU wants to prevent such “overdoses” with the new cosmetics regulation. Incidentally, retinal is not mentioned in it.