Thailand – The Fascinating South

My visit to Thailand wasn’t just a vacation. The country—especially the south—is part of my emotional home. My daughter has lived there for over ten years, as have my son-in-law and his large extended family. It was a return visit after many years. Then COVID-19 struck, along with two surgeries, which made the long trip from Munich to Krabi impossible for me.

Thailand—Ten Years Later. Upon my return, I recognized familiar sights and experienced many new things. Where to begin? My daughter said, “Why don’t you write a story about what life in Thailand is really like?” That’s why this story has become more than just a travelogue. In Thailand, especially if you live in the provinces or, like my daughter, on a small island in the south, things move at a different pace than they do here in Europe. And that’s not just because of the six-hour time difference that separates our worlds. It’s also because the predominantly Muslim south differs greatly from the Buddhist north of Thailand.

Thailand loves sweets

A lot of things we take for granted here in Germany are either impossible or an unaffordable luxury in Thailand. It starts with food. Good cheese? Forget it! Delicious plain yogurt? Expensive, unless you want to drown in sugar. Everything here is loaded with sugar. Getting an unsweetened smoothie made from fresh fruit in a restaurant or café requires a lot of explaining. And my daughter speaks Thai. So it’s not a language issue. Not even “waan nid noi” (a little)—which is usually what they ask. No, thank you. No sugar at all, please. I have to repeat my little speech over and over again.

Finding some nice decorations for my daughter’s new house in Krabi is practically impossible. You’d have to bring them all the way from Bangkok, which is 800 km away. Southern Thais just think practically. Anything that isn’t essential for daily life is considered useless. Given what most people here earn from their work—around 300 euros a month—that’s hardly surprising. Food takes a high priority. While we say “work first, then pleasure,” for Thais, eating comes first: eat first, then eat, then work.

No conflicts, please

If you want to live here, you have to quickly break the habit of thinking like a German. This goes for social interactions as well. When someone smiles here—which, unfortunately, is becoming increasingly rare these days—it’s actually a genuine smile. Thais always smile when dealing with strangers. But most of the time, it’s just a facade. Smiling serves to avoid conflict, and Thais want to avoid conflict at all costs. Their eyes often tell a different story. But here, you don’t look into them. That’s considered rather rude.

Yet the people here are extremely talkative. They’re constantly chatting and very curious. My daughter sometimes finds it exhausting because the questions keep repeating in an endless loop. I’m spared that because I don’t speak the language—except for a few polite phrases. Still, interacting with people here is pleasant. They’re polite, friendly, and helpful. I noticed that right away when I arrived at the airport in Bangkok. While back home you might be ignored or snapped at, in Thailand someone is immediately there to lend a hand if you’re clearly having trouble finding something or figuring things out.

Always keep it quiet

Thais move quietly and unobtrusively, approaching life with humility. You can tell just by the way they walk. They don’t walk upright with shoulders back like we do. Their posture is more stooped, their gaze directed downward as they pass by pedestrians and, especially, people at prayer. When people honk while driving, it’s not out of anger or to reprimand others. At most, the horn is used to greet an acquaintance. Traffic rules are more or less optional. Everyone drives however they please. And yet it works—at least most of the time. Still, I’m very glad that my daughter is behind the wheel during our outings.

Our first excursion

It takes us to Krabi Province, specifically to Khlong Root Canal, an area that served as the main filming location for “Jurassic Park.” Dramatic limestone cliffs alternate with lush vegetation. And indeed, on the picturesque waterways with their crystal-clear, emerald-green water and dense jungle, you immediately feel transported into the movie with the prehistoric dinosaurs. Klong Nam Sam is a popular destination for families—whether for swimming in the “Crystal Lagoon,” paddling through the tranquil canal lined with trees and wild orchids, or exploring the mangrove world.

In stark contrast to this serene natural spectacle is the tourist hotspot Ao Nang, once a cozy, sleepy fishing village. Today, restaurants, bars, travel agencies, and massage parlors line the main street. The long beach on the Andaman Sea would still be very beautiful if it weren’t overrun by crowds of tourists. Numerous longboat tours are offered to the beaches of limestone islands such as Ko Hong, Ko Poda, and Ko Gai (Chicken Island). Even though the surroundings are picturesque, let’s get out of here.

In contrast, the Ao Nang Mountain Buddha Temple (often called Wat Phu Khao Phra Maha Bodhisattva), located about 3–4 km northeast of Ao Nang Beach, is a peaceful retreat. It’s one of the less crowded hidden gems in the Krabi region. Those who don’t mind climbing the many steps up to the golden Buddha statue and temple complex on the mountainside will be rewarded with a spectacular view of the stunning limestone cliffs. Admission is free, by the way, which is quite rare in Thailand. And as a tourist, you usually end up paying several times the price charged to locals.

Another day in Krabi Town

We’ll start off on a relaxed note with a wonderfully soothing Thai massage near Pak Nam. The Krabi River is a five-kilometer-long estuary of the Andaman Sea, lined with mangroves. A particular highlight is the River Restaurant, the only floating restaurant in town, located right on the river with live music in the evening, excellent seafood, and attentive service. You can also find great food and cool drinks at the “45 degrees BAR Krabi.” It’s definitely a great way to end the night after a visit to the Night Market. On weekends, it features food, clothing, and souvenirs, as well as live music and seating..

The snow-white Wat Kaew Korawaram (often simply called Wat Kaew) is known as the “White Temple” and is situated on a hill in the center of Krabi Town. It is the largest and most significant Buddhist temple in the city. The main temple is gleaming white, while the interior is decorated with colorful frescoes. The impressive white staircase leading to the top is lined with Naga serpents.

Don’t forget: When entering religious buildings, shoulders and knees must be covered. Shoes must be removed before entering the temple building—this also applies to residential homes, massage parlors, and some smaller shops. A collection of shoes in front of the door is a clear sign that you should leave your shoes there as well. This is done for cleanliness and out of respect.

A different kind of life on Kho Siboya island

The Siboya Bungalows on Koh Siboya swill be my home for the next ten days. This idyllic island resort, run by Mr. Chung, offers a warm atmosphere and complete tranquility far away from mass tourism. The on-site restaurant with delicious Thai food and Anne’s massages—what more could I ask for? I was particularly taken with the spicy yam salad with meat or cashews. However, I have to admit: my son-in-law Law cooks even better—for example, dishes with freshly caught squid and spices from our own garden. Followed by papaya from our own garden. It really is a bit like paradise.

You do have to get used to all the critters you find in the midst of so much nature, though. Spiders the size of your palm, but very peaceful and useful. One was sitting on the toilet seat. A frog hops through my bathroom. Unfortunately, the little things pee, which is why I can only carry them outside in a towel. But that doesn’t stop it from coming back the next day. There are ants of every size. The only ones that are unpleasant are the ones with a red section in the middle of their bodies. Their bites are painful and can even cause slight bruising.

Monkey alert early in the morning

Monkeys are also a common sight, especially in the early morning when they’re searching for fruit from tamarind trees. A whole troop trampled across the roof of my little cottage a few times early in the morning. Sleep was out of the question. A particularly ugly, large macaque stared cheekily into my window. A Tokay Gecko, the largest of its kind, helpfully eats the insects in my room. It makes strangely primitive sounds. Then there are monitor lizards, as big as crocodiles, waiting for food scraps behind the restaurant kitchen. Everything in nature here simply has its purpose.

Relaxing is my main goal these days. Strolling along the beach, hanging out on the terrace or in the hammock. All while enjoying a delicious shake made from fresh tropical fruits—from pineapple to mango to papaya. I’m also well taken care of when it comes to wellness. Ann gives the world’s best Thai massage. 400 baht an hour. You can only dream of that in Europe—and even then, you often pay a lot of money for lower quality. Another highlight: I get to swim in my daughter’s beautiful blue pool.

Cruise around the island on a motorcycle

There are no cars on Siboya. Most things are done by motorcycle. So, for our tour of the island, I hop on the back of the motorcycle behind my daughter Melanie. We pass rubber plantations (the rubber smells awful when it’s harvested!), two schools, four mosques, old wooden houses, and—somewhat bizarrely—modern prefab homes.

At the island café Baan Tid Koh—run by a very friendly Muslim couple—there’s a delicious, creamy coconut smoothie (40 baht) and very tasty food. Many of the locals come here—it’s cheaper than cooking for themselves. Then we head to the island general store and the women’s shop. They have everything for the household, clothes, and of course food. After the motorcycle ride, which was unfamiliar to me, the massage at Ann’s feels especially good.

On another day, we visit the neighboring island of Koh Jum. It’s just a 35-minute boat ride, and then we’re picked up by a tuk-tuk—actually, the motorized three-wheeled vehicle is called a samlor. Our driver, En, is from the Koh Pu side of the island and therefore knows it like the back of his hand.

Koh Jum, the small island between Krabi and Koh Lanta, is a bit more touristy than Koh Siboya, but still offers secluded beaches, affordable accommodations, and an authentic island lifestyle with charming shops, cozy cafes, and a very laid-back atmosphere. Golden Beach is particularly beautiful, with its white sand perfect for a full day of swimming, whereas on Siboya, depending on the tides, you often have to “chase” the water for what seems like forever.

A must-see: the national parks in southern Thailand

Our first stop is the Emerald Pool in Krabi, also known as Sa Morakot. It is located in the Khao Phra Bang Khram Nature Reserve, about 55 kilometers southeast of Krabi Town, and is one of the region’s most beautiful attractions. (Admission: 400 baht for tourists, 40 baht for locals). But this experience is worth every baht.

The idyllic hike through the vibrant jungle ecosystem, which ultimately leads to the crystal-clear, emerald-green natural pool, is simply fascinating. The view would be even more beautiful without the tourists bathing in it with their selfie sticks. I’m happy to skip a swim in the water, which is only about two meters deep. Fortunately, swimming is prohibited in the nearby Crystal Pool. A dreamlike oasis to linger in.

In contrast, I found the Hot Stream Waterfall (Thai: Namtok Ron), also located in Krabi Province in the Khlong Thom district, to be disappointing. The water in the natural thermal pool, which is approximately 35–42 °C, comes from volcanic springs. It flows over smooth stones onto terraces, forming small pools (natural whirlpools) where people bathe before the water flows into a cooler river. Since the water is rich in mineral salts, it is said to have a positive effect on the skin and overall health.

Floating bungalows in Khao Sok National Park

Before I head back to Europe, my daughter has one more highlight on her list. We’re driving about two hours south to Thailand. Khao Sok National Park is located on the west coast of Surat Thani Province. The 739-square-kilometer national park consists of 80 percent water and mangrove swamps, and 20 percent dense rainforests, jungle trails, waterfalls, and exotic wildlife.

Its centerpiece, Chiao-Lan Lake, is a gigantic reservoir that we explore by longboat. We pass bizarre rock formations such as the famous Three Brothers Rock (Hin Sam Glur). The shores are lined with the lush greenery of the jungle and densely forested limestone mountain ranges.

We visit waterfalls glowing a bright blue, deep, dark stalactite caves, and observe the exotic wildlife, such as the rare hornbill. Because of its long, thick, and curved beak in striking yellow, which resembles a rhinoceros horn in shape, it is also known as the rhinoceros bird. They can weigh up to six kilograms, have a wingspan of up to 1.8 meters, and live to be 35–40 years old. Hornbills are primarily found in the tropics of Asia and Africa.

We’re staying at one of the floating bungalow resorts. All the bungalows are built to float on the water. They’re connected by walkways and offer direct access to the lake. Our family bungalow is surprisingly comfortable and even has a small terrace. The resort features a communal area where meals are served. For safety reasons, however, you must wear life jackets when swimming, just as is required on the longboats. There are canoes at the walkways that are available for free use.

In addition, various excursions are offered, such as night hikes in the national park or early-morning wildlife-watching trips. It’s an unforgettable experience in any case. Especially at 5 a.m., when the sun slowly rises above the horizon, the mist lifts from the water, and the jungle awakens with a myriad of sounds. I couldn’t have imagined a more beautiful way to end my trip to Thailand.