Water Instead Of Alcohol—A New Generation Of Perfumes

It sounds strange at first. Until now, it was always thought that alcohol was essential for perfumes. As the main solvent, it ensures that the fragrance oils are evenly distributed, evaporates quickly on the skin, and also acts as a preservative. But a new emulsion technology has made water-based perfumes possible. Is this a win?

Water instead of alcohol. Why has the perfume industry recently been focusing more and more on eliminating alcohol from its fragrance collections? Some brands (including Maison Sybarite, Hermetica, Brumée, and The Water Brand) have even made water-based perfumes their signature and completely removed alcohol from their portfolios. Traditional houses are supplementing their classics with alcohol-free variations (Annick Goutal in 2018 was followed by “Terre d’Hermès” alcohol-free body spray in 2021 and “J’adore Parfum d’Eau” by Dior in 2022).

Quitting alcohol in perfumes? Why?

Alcohol is increasingly being criticized for its effects on the skin and the environment. In the future, it could also fall under new VOC (volatile organic compounds) regulations. These aim to limit the high alcohol content (often 65-75% in EdP/EdT) in order to improve air quality and reduce ozone formation. Although the so-called Eau de Cologne, Eau de Toilette, or Eau de Parfum have “eau” in their names, they actually contain only a small amount of water.

Ethanol dominates their formulations and is—as is often forgotten—their main ingredient. As the successor to “Spiritus vini,” a distilled wine used to remove tannins, alcohol actually offers numerous advantages: preservation, asepsis, dissolution of aromatic molecules, and rapid evaporation upon application. All these are reasons why alcohol remained unchallenged in perfumes for a long time. Although perfume history had long been familiar with other carriers such as oil or even vinegar with astringent properties, water never caught on. The main reason was that fragrance concentrates are oil-based and therefore not water-soluble. A solution therefore had to be found to combine the two phases.

Water-based perfumes

Just a few years ago, it was difficult to create a water-based perfume. This only became possible thanks to advances in emulsion technology. Earlier generations still had this stubborn sticky effect. The new water-based fragrances are more fluid and user-friendly. Surfactants are a prerequisite for water-based perfumes. These substances, which are widely used in cosmetics, have a hydrophilic and a lipophilic part, which make it possible to combine two immiscible phases. Reducing the interfacial tension between the oil and water phases creates a homogeneous, stable solution. Depending on particle size and transparency, they are used in nano- or micro-emulsions. Nano-emulsions appear milky – as in Dior – while micro-emulsions are transparent (velvetvelo).

The patented Aquafine technology

The fragrance company Mane chose this microemulsion technology for its Aquafine technology, patented in 2005. “It is a thermodynamically stable, transparent microemulsion. It consists of 100 percent biodegradable ingredients and is produced using an energy- and CO₂-efficient manufacturing process,” explainsCamille de Nanteuil, Head of Innovation Projects and Applications in Fine Fragrance at Mane for Europe. Aquafine currently offers the best formulation compromise: high fragrance concentration without PEG solubilizers (polyethylene glycol, responsible for the viscous effect) and without phenoxyethanol (a preservative that is considered an endocrine disruptor at certain dosages), while delivering high olfactory and sensory performance with a non-sticky skin feel.

Challenge for perfumers

Working with a water base poses a technical challenge for perfumers. Véronique Nyberg, Vice President of Fine Fragrance Creation at Mane, confirms: “It changes the formulation habits. You have to avoid reactions between the ingredients and the medium. Water can break certain molecular bonds and cause esterifications. These are undesirable transformations that alter the fragrances and their scent. That’s why the dosage of some ingredients that are commonly used in alcoholic formulas has to be reduced.”

Nyberg: “With other raw materials, color change is problematic because they darken in water, such as patchouli or vanilla. You have to clarify the requirements of the product line early on with the brand and decide whether the bottles should be transparent or opaque.”

To facilitate composition and anticipate incompatibilities, Mane has been developing a database for perfumers for 18 years. Are there any creative limitations to be concerned about when developing water-based perfumes? Quite the contrary: “With Aquafine, all fragrance families are possible, the spectrum of expression is very broad,” says Camille de Nanteuil. Fragrance development also differs depending on the carrier medium: “more linear on a water basis,” as Véronique Nyberg describes it—without the typical alcohol top note effect, “but durability and persistence are absolutely guaranteed.”

Special requirements

The water base also places demands on the primary packaging and requires precise technical specifications. Since water is heavier than alcohol, special pumps are needed to ensure fine atomization and maintain the usual application gesture. “We are working with our partners to develop systems for optimal atomization,” explains Camille de Nanteuil.

In addition, unlike alcohol, which eliminates germs, the water base requires special precautions: aseptic filling conditions as in cosmetics production and, in many cases, the use of a preservative. In addition to classic challenge tests, supplementary bacteriological tests are necessary to guarantee product safety. If these requirements are met, the shelf life – confirmed by fragrance, color, and stability tests—is identical to that of alcohol-based products.

Benefits for the user

Precisely because water is not bactericidal, it does not damage the skin microbiome. Véronique Nyberg: “With Aquafine, we are rediscovering gestures such as spraying directly onto the skin—even sensitive skin—or onto the hair.” Camille de Nanteuil sums it up: “Good environmental performance (biodegradability and neutral additives), multifunctionality (application all over the body), and skin compatibility are the main reasons for using water-based perfumes.”

After the technology initially won over the Middle East market – due to religious compatibility – and the room fragrance sector, it is undeniable that the benefits for users will make water-based perfume a key trend in the coming years.

An innovation between perfumery and skincare


The water-based formula of Velvetvelo fragrances is based on Mane Aquafine technology. This innovation gives the fragrances a 12-hour longevity, which is equivalent to classic alcohol-based fragrances. The texture remains transparent and is not sticky. They are also particularly kind to the skin and provide the upper layers of the skin with additional hydration. This makes them more than just a perfume that smells good.

Velvetvelo offers a choice of four variations on the theme of water: “Rue des Mimosas” (new beginning of the year), “Un Homme à la Mer” (spring outing), “Sound of the Sun” (summer) and “Archimède in Love” (winter fragrance). Each essence captures a season and the emotions that accompany it. VELO – the four letters can also be rearranged to spell LOVE.

Perfumes by Velvetvelo, 100 ml, 129 euros, Velvetvelo scented candles made from vegetable wax, 49 euros