‘Martin Margiela: In His Own Words.’ That’s the title of the new documentary about the mysterious Belgian designer. The German filmmaker Reiner Holzemer created a new standard for fashion documentaries. “Utterly riveting”, so The Hollywood Reporter.
A pair of hands, a calm voice and a very personal story. Martin Margiela is known for never wanting to show his face. Even at the height of his career, he did not give interviews. In the documentary he gives the viewer a glimpse of his very own world. His career, stages in his career, memories of childhood and deep insights into his mental life. Not ostensibly direct, but very subtle in an almost artistic narrative style. In the film it is manifested again and again in Margiela’s hands, who adjust a piece of material with elegant, subtle movements or open a sketchbook from early childhood. This picture, his hands in plain white as if in a frame and looking like a still life, is a recurring style element. It is maintained throughout the film. Poetry for the viewer that evokes closeness to a designer who is considered aloof.
Martin Margiela. He touches. Either way.
He provoked as an avant-garde designer. Margiela was Jean-Paul Gaultier’s assistant from 1984 to 1987. In 1987 he founded his own label Maison Martin Margiela. It was then that the “4 Stitches” – Margiela’s trademark – came into being. A logo with four stitches and numbering. Unusual. Ordinary is not consistent with this designer anyway. Margiela revolutionized the shows. He sent his models on the catwalk wearing masks. His shows were like rock concerts. They were held in theaters, even parking spaces served as a location. He was different in everything that made him extremely attractive. His provocative designs were in demand. He created never-before-seen collection highlights: the “sock sweater”, a sweatshirt made from military socks, or the “gloves top” made from gloves sewn together. The “Plastic Grocery Top” is made from redesigned plastic bags. To name just a few.
He amazed and surprised
The film also reports on Margiela’s successful collaboration with the luxury house Hermès. In 1997 he was surprisingly appointed chief designer of women’s fashion. The fashion designer created 12 collections for the traditional French company. The conservative luxury label Hermès encountered the avant-garde and idiosyncratic stylistic ideas of the fashion company Maison Martin Margiela, which questioned and literally dismantled all aesthetic values of the time. The design houses couldn’t have been more different.… weiterlesen
Culture&Cream Autorin Petra Springer
Aus dem Bereich Fashion-Illustration & Design Studies an der Meisterschule für Mode, München, kommend, war ich lange Jahre als Fashion-Director für verschiedene Magazine tätig. Seit zwei Jahren arbeite ich als Content-Editor für Online-Portale und entwickle gezeichnete Modekurzfilme. Weiterbildung: Illustration & Fashion Drawing, FIT, Fashion Institute of Technology, New York City. In München: Visual Communications, Wildner Akademie, Zeichnen & Malerei Studien, Akthof, Aktzeichen & Anatomisches Zeichnen, Akademie für Bildende Künste.