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Mica – The Sad Story Behind

Written by Margit RĂŒdiger on . Posted in Cream, Culture.

Ever heard of mica? And you probably have it somewhere in your cosmetics bag. Because mica is the pigment that makes eye shadows, powders and lipsticks shimmer so beautifully. But it’s not just makeup products that are adorned with the precious pearlescent shimmer. Mica is also used for coatings, for example in the automotive industry. The pigment is not the real problem, but how it is obtained. In itself, mica is not evil. It is a naturally occurring mineral. So it is not problematic for the user. But its extraction often takes place under inhumane conditions – through child labor. This must be stopped. The first steps have already been taken. A major step in the right direction is an initiative that was founded in January 2017. At that time, representatives of 20 companies and organizations worldwide got together and founded the “Responsible Mica Initiative” (RMI). Its goal is to eliminate child labor in mica supply chains. All RMI members must commit to buying only raw substances from legal mines. The association is also committed to transparency and the implementation of workplace standards for mine workers. The initiative now has 80 members from all sectors of industry. These include Chanel, Clarins, Coty, Shiseido, L’OrĂ©al, Sephora, H&M, Porsche and the BMW Group. The children’s charity Terre des Hommes is also part of it. The versatile mineral Mica is a term that comes from Latin. It means something like “glitter” or “shine”. The sheen typical of mica depends on the particle size. The smaller the particle size, the more matte the pigments are and the higher the opacity. “The size of the pigment also determines how shiny something is. A soft eyeshadow needs smaller particles to make it look smooth. Smaller particles create shine, while larger particles create a strong glitter effect,” explains makeup developer Rowena Bird from the cosmetic company lush. The silicate mineral is used in various products from blush to make-up pencils, from nail polish to carnival colors. Mica can even be found in children’s products such as shower gel, bath soap and toothpaste. And because it makes powders easier to make, it is often used as a filler in mineral makeup. Mica belongs to the so-called mica group, and is also disparagingly called cat’s silver or fool’s gold. On the INCI list, it can be found under the designation CI 77019 or as Potassium Aluminum Silicate. Combined with titanium oxide To create different colors and various gloss or glitter effects, the mica particles are coated with an oxide – usually titanium oxide.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: „Matte Universal Tinted Moisturizer SPF 46“ von DRMTLGY

Written by Margit RĂŒdiger on . Posted in #me.

I think tinted moisturizer with sun protection is an ingenious invention that also saves me time in my morning routine. I found DRMTLGY’s matte tinted face sunscreen with broad spectrum protection against UVA and UVB rays while browsing the internet. Many of the products offered on the international platforms are simply garbage and don’t even come close to delivering what they promise. I have already had some negative experiences with this. But DRMTLGY (you simply can’t write this manufacturer in lower case) is a medical-grade skincare product that is partly manufactured in California and Korea. Tinted moisturizer without greasy shine Why matte? Because I can use the product all year round. In winter, it gives my complexion a beautiful, slightly matte finish and, thanks to SPF 46, provides adequate protection from the winter sun’s rays. In summer, the warm weather can stimulate the skin’s sebaceous glands to produce more oil. And this leads to a shiny or oily complexion. The tinted moisturizer prevents this. Three advantages at a glance The Tinted Moisturizer instantly evens out skin tone and blends seamlessly into the natural complexion. It provides shine-free, sheer coverage for my perfect “no make-up” look! The skin is lightly moisturized with hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and vitamin E. These substances also have a calming effect and reduce redness. Shine-free UVA and UVB protection. The broad spectrum, a hybrid sunscreen with mineral and chemical ingredients, protects the skin from harmful rays and prevents premature skin ageing. The ingredients Zinc Oxide 12% is a gentle, mineral sunscreen ingredient that reflects UVA and UVB rays and provides high-quality broad spectrum protection. Hyaluronic Acid absorbs and retains moisture, increasing hydration levels and plumping dry, dull skin. Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, minimizes the appearance of pores, evens skin tone and restores moisture loss. Vitamin E is known as a soothing antioxidant. It helps to protect the skin from environmental stress and ageing. Knotweed extract, also an antioxidant, helps to inhibit glycation (saccharification and thus stiffening of the elastic fibers), which is partly responsible for wrinkles and the loss of firmness and elasticity. With or without foundation? The “Matte Universal Tinted Moisturizer” has a light tint. It can be used instead of foundation for a more natural finish. If you prefer more coverage, you can use the tinted moisturizer under your usual foundation. „Matte Universal Tinted Moisturizer SPF 46“ von DRMTLGY, 1.7 oz, US$ 29… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Detox Eye Make-Up Remover from Grown Alchemist

Written by Margit RĂŒdiger on . Posted in #me.

I am particularly critical of eye make-up removers. Either they don’t remove make-up, especially mascara, thoroughly enough or they don’t do my eyes any good. The Detox Eye Make-Up Remover from Grown Alchemist was specially developed for the sensitive eye area and is even supposed to remove waterproof mascara without stressing the skin and leaving it dry or irritated. To do its job well, the remover contains avocado and sunflower oil. These cleansing oils have the task of removing dirt, impurities, dead skin cells and eye make-up textures. A blend of nourishing botanicals helps the skin to retain moisture and stay balanced. Chamomile soothes inflamed or irritated skin and relieves irritation. Silicone-free Eye Make-up-Remover This natural, vegan and silicone-free eye make-up remover not only has cleansing and nourishing properties. It also protects the sensitive skin around the eyes, as it is rich in vitamins C and E and contains many antioxidants that combat oxidative stress and free radicals. This keeps the skin firm, radiant and smooth, with less tendency to develop visible wrinkles. The Grown Alchemist Cleanse Detox Eye-Makeup Remover is a make-up remover for normal or waterproof make-up. Extracts from various plants as well as naturally derived azulene and vitamin E have a nourishing effect. The sensitive eye area is better protected from many harmful environmental influences and therefore premature skin ageing. Make-up residue is removed reliably yet gently. If only it wasn’t for the greasy film
 The recommendation is to shake the brown remover bottle well to activate the formulation. Then apply generously to a cotton pad and press onto the skin over the closed eyes without applying too much pressure. Gently wipe outwards and repeat the process until the last traces of make-up and mascara have been removed. I follow the instructions exactly. The white emulsion comes out of the bottle a little “undecided”. I have to pour quite a bit until there is enough remover on the cotton pad. The texture spreads very well on the skin and feels pleasant. I don’t use eyeshadow anyway. To remove the mascara completely, I have to wipe several times from the inside to the outside of the eyelid. As promised, all eye make-up is removed without leaving any residue. The only problem is that a slightly oily film spreads over the eye with every blink. Really unpleasant. The next evening, I give the Detox Eye Make-Up Remover from Grown Alchemist a second try.… weiterlesen

What Has Hydrogen To Do With The Gut Microbiome And Healthy Skin?

Written by Juergen Jansen on . Posted in Health & Beauty.

Hydrogen is the chemical element H2. We learned this in our chemistry lessons. But molecular hydrogen can also have an effect on the skin, because it acts as a selective antioxidant that neutralizes the most harmful free radicals in particular. How does this work? JĂŒrgen Jansen, an expert in alternative methods of self-healing, explains in this article how hydrogen can be used on the skin. Hydrogen and the skin. Where is the connection? Almost all of us are familiar with these changes on the face in form of wrinkles, spots or greasiness – typical symptoms of skin ageing associated with excessive reactive oxygen radicals. Frequent exposure to UV light also causes these symptoms. Basically, these are clear signals from the body that something is wrong. It is well known that our skin is our largest organ and acts as our first line of defense against environmental toxins. What not many people realize, however, is that the skin is in constant communication with the intestines. Healthy skin starts on the inside The gut-skin axis is formed via many bidirectional pathways. The structures and functions of the skin are very similar to those of the gut. An important communicator between the two is the immune system. There is increasing scientific evidence that the composition of, or damage to, the gut microbiome has an impact on the skin. Our gut microbiome naturally produces a high H2 concentration with butyrogenic bacteria, regulates this and also has an anti-inflammatory effect. How can you improve your skin using molecular hydrogen? There are many ways to do this – either bathing in H2 water, drinking H2 water, using an H2 shower or an H2 skin spray or even inhaling H2. Bathing in hydrogen-rich water is particularly popular in Japan. However, you must have a device that allows the H2 gas to remain in the water for a long time, as the molecular hydrogen escapes very quickly. In addition, it is recommended to use a towel soaked in H2 water with warm water, to use H2 water for inhalation and to drink H2 water. The simplest option is to apply a nanospray of H2 water to the skin or to take an H2 shower every morning with hydrogen-rich water. It is important that the molecular hydrogen gets to the place where it is needed, which is why it is so important to use all application options in parallel. This can also be seen in pictures in a 2021 skin study from Japan.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: „Enzyme Peeling Powder“ from A4 Cosmetics

Written by Margit RĂŒdiger on . Posted in #me.

Enzyme peelings are the alternative to mechanical scrub preparations. Mechanical means that the product works with small abrasive particles to remove dead flakes and superficial calluses from the skin. These consist of sugar, crushed almond or cherry kernels or rice bran, for example. However, there are also rub-on particles made from microplastics. These could cause micro-injuries to the skin due to the sharp edges and are also bad for the environment. The plastic particles are insoluble in water, difficult to break down and can accumulate in the organisms of aquatic animals. Complete chemical degradation can take several hundred years. It is therefore essential to buy products without microplastics! Enzymes provide the exfoliating effect For me, only enzyme peelings come into question anyway, because I don’t like the rubbing feeling on the skin. Instead of abrasive particles, an enzyme peeling contains activating enzymes that gently remove dead skin cells. I tested the Enzyme Peeling from A4 Cosmetics. It is a mild cleanser that also tightens the pores. The pack contains 15 small sachets containing a fine white powder. If you don’t use the entire contents with every application, the 15 sachets are sufficient for approx. 30-45 applications. To use, open the sachet and sprinkle the required amount of powder onto the palm of your hand. Mix it with a few drops of lukewarm water. It is important to find the optimum mixing ratio. Too much will make the powder too runny, too little will cause it to clump. The gentle cleansing When properly foamed, it creates a pleasantly creamy substance that can be easily spread over the moistened face, neck and dĂ©colletĂ©. Always avoid the eye area! Gently massage in the enzyme peeling and then rinse off with lukewarm water. My skin looks fresh and clear afterwards. However, it also feels a little dry and requires a day or night cream, depending on when I had time for the peeling. In any case, you should not exfoliate more than once or twice a week. A4’s active ingredient care also lives up to its claim of natural-based active ingredients in the Enzyme Peeling. The exfoliating powder is full of goodies: Eco-certified argan oil. With an extremely high vitamin A and E content, it stimulates cell activity and renewal. Caffeine supports this effect. Activating enzymes gently remove dead skin cells. Aloe vera from controlled organic cultivation also moisturizes the skin. Argan fruit peels dissolve keratinized cells and impurities and stimulate the skin’s cell activity.… weiterlesen

Polyphenols – Longevity aus Pflanzen

Written by Margit RĂŒdiger on . Posted in Culture, Health & Beauty.

Polyphenols are essential for the survival of plants. But they can also provide important services to human health. Milan-based scientist Prof. Adriana Albini has made an astonishing discovery in olive press water. Polyphenols are found in almost every fruit and vegetable, in herbs and also in some foods known as superfoods, such as cocoa powder, chokeberries and blueberries. These so-called secondary metabolites primarily have an antioxidant effect. Many compounds serve as defense substances against pests, diseases and much more. Colorful flower pigments are also plant phenols and attract insects for pollination, for example. However, polyphenols are mainly found in the outer layers of plants (e.g. the skin and the peel). And this is where olives come into play. The dark water obtained during pressing contains an enormous amount of highly effective polyphenols. It is actually a waste product, as we mainly appreciate the oil obtained in the process. This is not the case at Fattoria La Vialla in Meliciano, Tuscany. There, the olive press water is not disposed of, but filled into small jars and sold as a dietary supplement. The tradition of “acqua mora” in Italy is a long one. The ancients have always drunk the bitter elixir of longevity. Nonna Caterina, the great-grandmother of the Lo Francos, is said to have drunk two glasses of it a day during the olive harvest – and lived to be 98 years old. Polyphenols from a scientific point of view Dr. Adriana Albini, who works at the European Institute of Oncology – IEO in Milan and mainly researches inflammatory processes in the body and cancer prevention, examined the OliPhenolia from the Fattoria in more detail. When and how did you come into contact with OliPhenolia? Ah, that’s a nice story. It happened a few years ago. I was speaking on an Italian television program about dietary derivatives for health. The Lo Franco family, owners of Fattoria La Vialla, were watching and asked me if I would be interested in investigating their product, which was obtained from the filtration of “waste water” from olive flour. This olive press water is very rich in healthy substances, especially polyphenols. So I agreed to research it scientifically. We then started to purify the extract and test it on cells in the laboratory. Had you ever heard of “acqua mora” before? Not directly. But it has long been known that olive oil has a positive effect on the human organism.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: „Baby Blonde Duo“ from Christophe Robin

Written by Margit RĂŒdiger on . Posted in #me.

The “Baby Blonde Duo” consists of the “Shade Variation Shampoo” and the “Shade Variation Conditioner”. The two have declared war on the yellow tinge of blonde or gray hair. Just the thing for me. Now baby blonde. Four years ago, I changed my hair color from natural black to “salt & pepper”, i.e. silver streaked, after the first signs of white temples appeared. At the time, it didn’t even occur to me that I would no longer be able to use “normal” shampoos, which I still had heaps of in my cupboard, but would need products that prevent or neutralize the unsightly discolouration of the colour-treated strands. Violet combats yellow This anti-yellow or anti-brass hair care – whether shampoo, conditioner or mask – usually has a purple color. This is because, according to the principles of colorimetry, violet is the complementary color to yellow. Crushed violet pigments are responsible for the purple color, neutralizing the unloved brassy and yellow tones of bleached hair and preserving a fresh, cool shade. A must not only for new blondies, but also for silver hair, because without the right care, even the coolest silver will take on a yellowish shimmer after a while. This is because color-treated hair like mine becomes more porous due to oxidation during the bleaching process. As the hair fibre is chemically altered during bleaching, its natural protective barrier is sensitized, the hair is weakened and is more susceptible to sunlight, chlorine or frequent contact with water. In contrast, the bluish nanopigments that are applied to the surface of the hair fiber during shampooing to correct unwanted color tones have a nourishing effect. The hair cuticle is not attacked, as is the case with bleaching. Advantage for the „Baby Blonde Duo“ I use a purple conditioner every time I wash my hair because the cool purple pigment doesn’t damage the hair. The only disadvantage with many brands: If you leave it in your hair too long, the purple pigments overdo it a bit and give the lightened strands a purple (old lady) shimmer. My grandmother loved it. Not me! That’s why I never leave a purple mask or conditioner on for too long. The “Baby Blonde Duo” has an absolute advantage here. Both product textures are not as dark purple as with many competitors, where I have to wear gloves if I don’t want discolored palms (which can be easily washed off with soap).… weiterlesen

Niacinamide Is Considered A Power Substance For Your Skin

Written by Margit RĂŒdiger on . Posted in Cream.

Niacinamide creams and serums are currently in the highest demand in drugstores and perfumeries and always sell out the fastest. They are experiencing an absolute run among female consumers. But men also benefit from niacinamide for enlarged pores, spots and wrinkles. Niacinamide is considered a power ingredient. From Nivea to luxury skincare brands such as Dr. Barbara Sturm, no brand today can do without it. Anyone who deals with dietary supplements is sure to have come across the substance niacin. This is vitamin B3 (the chemical name for vitamin B3 is niacin). Niacin is converted into niacinamide in the body and is therefore an important precursor of two co-enzymes of radical importance for the body’s health: NAD (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide) and NADPH (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate). These two co-enzymes boost the energy of cells and are involved in more than 200 vital enzymatic reactions. It has been scientifically proven that these two co-enzymes decrease with increasing age, particularly in skin tissue. This decline is linked to cell senescence. Aged skin cells secrete less collagen: Niacinamide could help to boost production again. Ageing skin damaged by sunlight can also benefit from this. Niacinamide in serums and creams In skin care, the term niacinamide or nicotinamide is used. Niacinamide is a derivative of vitamin B3, which means that it has a slightly different chemical structural formula to niacin. In the cosmetic field, the water-soluble vitamin B3 derivative is increasingly being mixed into serums or creams. It is considered a remedy for many of the most common problems that can arise from stress, but also from over-care of the skin. Niacinamide is characterized by five important benefits in skin care: It is a “cell-communicating” ingredient that helps to strengthen the building blocks of the skin barrier – ceramides and keratin. Improving the barrier makes the skin more resistant to external influences. An increased ceramide level means that moisture can be stored better. This in turn improves the texture of the skin. It looks plumper and feels softer. As the vitamin B3 derivative regulates melanin production, hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tones can be reduced. The complexion looks healthier and less dull as niacinamide counteracts the glycation process that contributes to collagen breakdown. It has a kind of blurring effect: its anti-inflammatory properties not only help to reduce redness and small imperfections, it can also reduce dark circles under the eyes. The power in gredient can also reduce the size of pores and improve the appearance of blackheads.… weiterlesen

Blue Light: Blue Alert

Written by Margit RĂŒdiger on . Posted in Health & Beauty.

Blue light has been with us all day long since smartphones, tablets and computers became part of our everyday lives. We are said to use our cell phones alone up to 150 times a day. According to a study by auditing firm EY, Germans aged 21-30 spend 6.9 hours a day surfing, using apps and playing games. Blue light is not as harmless as you might think. These are rays that penetrate deeper into our skin than UVA rays. Although research is still in its infancy, creams and glasses are already available to protect the skin and eyes from the effects of blue light. Blue Light – what exactly is it? Blue light is not an invention of the computer age. Blue light, known as HEV light (High Energy Visible Light), has always existed. It is the visible light that colors the sky such a beautiful blue. In the wave spectrum, it lies directly next to the UV range, so it also occurs in normal daylight. It makes up almost half of the sunlight spectrum. But it’s not just our popular communication tools that emit blue light, neon tubes and modern LEDs do too. Excessive exposure to such light sources can damage the eyes and disrupt the sleep-wake rhythm. This has been scientifically proven. But blue light also has its good sides: In small doses, it can also have positive effects, just like sunlight. In dermatology, blue light has been used for years specifically to treat acne and neurodermatitis. Studies have shown that it also benefits the psyche, e.g. in cases of winter depression. Do you already have a “screen face”? Less encouraging is a more recent finding that radiation causes us to age prematurely. Experts speak of “indoor smog” and the “screen face”. “Blue light penetrates deep into the lower layers of the skin,” explains Swiss dermatologist Dr. Felix Bertram. “We assume that the high-energy blue light causes oxidative stress in the skin, similar to UVA radiation.” On its way into the deep tissue layers, HEV forms large quantities of free radicals, which cause the destruction of important connective tissue fibers such as collagen and elastin. This in turn causes wrinkles to appear at an early stage and the skin loses elasticity, particularly in the chin and cheek area. In addition, the natural barrier layer becomes weaker and therefore more susceptible to external influences. This then manifests itself in irritation and redness, for example.… weiterlesen

The Balcony Power Station As A Sustainable Energy Source In Your Own Home

Written by Patrick Willemer on . Posted in living.

Balcony power stations are a good approach. In an age of rising energy prices and growing environmental awareness, more and more households are looking for ways to generate their own electricity in an environmentally friendly way. The use of balcony power stations is a concept that has become increasingly popular in recent years. These mini solar power plants allow tenants to produce renewable energy directly on their balconies. In an exclusive guest article, Patrick Willemer Patrick Willemer reports on the topic and provides valuable tips How landlords can benefit from balcony power stations A tenant’s decision to install a such a power plant can present a unique opportunity for landlords. From increasing the appeal of their properties to environmentally conscious tenants to potential tax benefits. The trend towards sustainable living is on the rise and balcony power plants could become a key differentiator for landlords. Properties that are already equipped with environmentally friendly technologies are becoming more attractive. The installation of balcony power plants can not only arouse the interest of potential tenants, but also have a positive impact on rental prices. Landlords could also benefit from various government subsidy programs that support the use of renewable energies in residential buildings. These financial incentives could not only cover the costs of installing balcony power plants, but also mean an additional profit for landlords.. Balcony power plants in urban areas: challenges and opportunities While balcony power stations are undoubtedly an innovative concept for decentralized energy generation, they are not without their challenges. Their integration into densely populated urban areas brings with it architectural and urban planning considerations. Questions of aesthetics and integration into the cityscape are just as important as technical considerations regarding grid stability and optimal utilization of solar energy. Another aspect is possible conflicts of interest between tenants and landlords when it comes to the use of such technologies. Clear agreements and transparent communication can contribute to the successful implementation of balcony power plants in urban areas. Energy transition with balcony power plants Such concepts could be more than just a local solution. In this article, we explore the potential of these mini solar power plants to revolutionize the energy market. From the creation of decentralized energy communities to integration into smart grid systems, we show how balcony power plants could play a crucial role in the future energy supply. Decentralized energy generation through balcony power plants could play a key role in the implementation of a sustainable energy transition.… weiterlesen