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Author: Margit Rüdiger

CultureAndCream Author from Munich To travel during my profession as a beauty journalist was never enough for my. Also my six month on a world trip didn't do it. It always attracts me to other cities, foreign countries, on roadtrips and places I don't know yet. But I am not only interested in "culture" and "cream", I am also fascinated by people who have stories to tell .  Such unique experiences I want to share with you.

The Hair Whisperer from Paris

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Celebrity Coiffeur Christophe Robin suprises with his tips C&C: Your „Volumizing Paste“ is a true volume wonder. What is the secret? Christophe Robin: It took me forever to find a way to give volume to the hair. I didn’t want to use too much coating ingredients, because they not only coat the hair but also the scalp. Means you add volume but the scalp can’t breathe. So it becomes greasy and the effect is like a soufflé. Also I wanted to fight greasy scalp because it is an issue. I use rose extracts that works like a natural hyaluronic acid. As well we have Rasul clay from Maroc to help the scalp not to get greasy and plus it puts back all of the minerals inside the hair. All together gives the volume. You recommend to use a hair oil before shampooing? Conditioner and masks are not my most preferred haircare products. They make the hair heavy and flat. For a mask there is mostly no time. For healthy scalp and hair everybody should make a pre-shampoo treatment with a hair oil, no matter what shampoo you use after. I do it since 25 years in my Paris’ salon. Actually the „Lavender Oil“ was my first product I developed. You put a little bit of oil on your palms, rub it, put it on your hair and brush it before washing with shampoo. If you want you can apply the oil the evening before and leave it overnight. What is the biggest mistake women can do to damage their hair? Using too much shampoo and not rinsing it well enough. In most of the shampoos there are coating ingredients like silicone. The scalp can’t breathe and you have to wash it again. The more you wash it the more you make your hair sensitive. If the hair is not rinsed well, there is always product left and the hair gets no shine. Many women also put too much conditioner directly on the scalp. Makes also that the scalp can’t breathe. Another bad thing are tools, they are terrible for the hair. But to use a lot of styling products is a trend nowadays. On YouTube you find some tutorials where people are encouraged to use five products on their hair, what is too much. All the ingredients grab on the hair and coat it. It makes it dry and dirty and it needs a wash again.… weiterlesen

Well Rolled! Pinprick by Pinprick to a more Beautiful Skin

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Micro-fine needle pricks improve the appearance of the skin. Especially effective in combination with Radio Frequency. “My insider tip for a radiant, healthy skin is the combination of Hyaluron skin booster and Dermaroller,” says Dr. Sonja Sattler, Head of Bellari Frankfurt. “With skin boost, the particularly low-viscosity hyaluronic acid is injected over a large area into the uppermost layer of the skin. This creates a glow effect and a special radiance to the face. Wrinkles are eliminated and, due to the water-binding property of Hyaluronic Acid, the skin stays moisturised and padded from the inside for a longer period of time. The Dermaroller ensures new collagen formation through the desired micro-injuries on the skin surface.” As a result, the entire skin appears finer, smaller-pored and rejuvenated. And, last but not least, scars of all kinds can be corrected as well. What is a Dermaroller? A Dermaroller or Dermapen is a handy roller with microfine needles which it’s why it’s also known as Microneedling. The needle length varies from 0.5 to 1.5 millimetres, depending on the requirements and body region. The microfine punctures simulate injuries to the skin without really damaging the tissue and the cells around the puncture canal are stimulated to produce more collagen. What is the exact treatment? First of all, the area to be treated is thoroughly cleansed and an anaesthetic cream applied. This requires 20 – 30 minutes to take effect after which the practitioner rolls the Dermaroller over the face for about 20 minutes. If necessary, individual areas can be treated several times and more intensively. A disposable sterile device is used for each patient. Dermarollers with shorter needles are also available for use at home. However, one should first be shown how to use them by a professional before attempting the procedure oneself. In cases of acne, it is best to leave it alone. Is one presentable after the treatment? Absolutely. The skin is slightly reddened at first, but this can be easily concealed with make-up. The redness disappears completely after 3-4 days and what remains is an improved skin structure. The treatment can be repeated at any time. What is the difference between this and Needling plus Radio Frequency? The combination of multipolar Radio Frequency technology (RF) and Microneedling leads to a fractional treatment of the skin. This makes it possible to tackle several skin problems simultaneously. The procedure is particularly suitable as an anti-aging measure since it counteracts the signs of skin aging: Wrinkles and loss of elasticity or sagging skin around the chin.… weiterlesen

Being Made Up by a Professional…

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A session with Pixi make-up artist Amanda Bell in London For many years one of THE beauty addresses in the English capital has been The Pixi Flagship Store, 22A Foubert’s Place, in the bustling Soho district. With lively Carnaby street and Liberty, the most beautiful department store for me, just around the corner, Pixi’s London Flagship Store is a true Beauty Oasis. The correct name, by the way, should be Pixi by Petra. Accomplished make-up artist Petra Brand set herself the goal of creating skin products with highly effective and soothing herbal ingredients and the result was the Pixi brand. The soul of the company, however, is Amanda Bell, global make-up artist and Pixi ambassador. A fascinating personality with a sparkling, rather un-English temperament, she can boast more than 20 years of professional experience in the beauty sector. As an author, award-winning product designer and make-up artist she is never short of ideas as to how to bring out the beauty in every woman. Amanda has worked with the world’s most famous models and photographers. Friendly and down-to-earth, she chats to me about her fascination with cats while, with practiced hands, she erases the fatigue from my face and applies exactly the right shade of red to my lips. Our interview is conducted afterwards on the roof terrace of a Vegan café around the corner: Amanda, what are your five most important professional tricks? Less is more. Use as natural a foundation as possible, one you feel good with. Use concealers in areas that need a little more coverage. This gives the complexion a flawless look. The base must look like a second skin. If you feel that your make-up is fading too quickly, use a fixing spray instead of a lot of powder. Personally, I like transparent powder, which I apply with a brush over the base. This doesn’t cover more or add additional colour, it just perfects the look. A final tip: Always apply make-up in a similar lighting situation to the one you will be in later on. It’s not advisable to apply your make-up in the morning under artificial light in the bathroom since the result will never look good in daylight. I’m looking for a new foundation so where is it best to test the colour? The skin tone of your hand is never the same as that of your face, so the texture can be tested on the back of your hand, but never the colour.… weiterlesen

Spare tyre? Just freeze it away!

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Painless body forming without surgery Small to medium-sized fat deposits can now be literally killed off. The term Cryolipolysis, which stems from the ancient Greek words “cryos” (ice, frost), “lipa” (fat) and “lysis” (dissolution), is a modern, non-invasive method of body shaping. Cryotherapy is based on a highly developed, patented cooling technology. Allergan‘s CoolSculpting procedure, with which the Rosenpark Klinik has been working since its market launch in Europe, requires neither surgery, anesthesia nor painkillers. Dr. Sonja Sattler: “The aesthetic medicine industry constantly offers new methods of treatment. Especially in the minimally invasive area there are numerous possibilities to treat patients’ problem zones, entirely without the use of a scalpel and with no subsequent downtime. Melt away fat during your lunch break! The Cryolipolysis procedure enables us doctors to fight unwanted fat deposits in a more gentle fashion.” Putting the freeze on fat cells Once the patient is made comfortable on the treatment couch, the targeted areas are cooled down to 4° degrees Celsius using special applicators. In this way, the blood supply to the fat cells, which are very sensitive to cold, is interrupted, causing them to die off. There is no damage to organs, skin or the surrounding tissue. How are the frozen fat cells eliminated from the body? The organism’s metabolic system subsequently takes over, gradually removing them naturally. The treatment is completely painless. What one feels is the suction of the treated area by the device head. There may also be a sensation of numbness there for a short time afterwards. Gentle modelling Cryolipolysis is particularly suitable for modeling the hip region, its aim being the removal of small to medium-sized fat pockets. It is very helpful where sport and even the best of diets have failed. Especially effective in removing fat from the hips as well as “love handles” or abdominal fat in women, it is also useful in treating the insides of the thighs, the knees and the upper arms. Not for those who are overweight “Basically, this is not a method of reducing weight,” says Dr. Sonja Sattler from the Rosenpark Klinik in Darmstadt. “It is more suited to slimmer women and men who suffer from individual problem zones and wish to reduce these fat deposits in specific areas”. An otherwise slim silhouette will look even more harmonious after body shaping with Cryolipolysis. No restrictions, no downtime The treatment is outpatient and takes about two hours, depending on the individual diagnosis.… weiterlesen

View the Outcome of Breast Augmentation Prior to the Operation

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A modern 3D simulation makes this possible Every woman who plans to have her breasts enlarged is curious to know what they will look like after the operation. Uncertainties often arise when choosing the implant size. Exactly what is the difference between 300 ml and 400 ml? Which implant shape suits me and will the result really look natural? With the Crisalix 3D simulation, these questions can now be answered visually even before the procedure takes place. Dr. Leonard Nenad Josipovic, breast augmentation and breast reduction/ breast lift expert at the Rosenpark Klinik in Darmstadt demonstrates how this works: “The 3D simulation consists of a 3D camera mounted on a tablet which is equipped with a corresponding App. I scan the patient with the camera and the App creates a 3D image. It takes only a few seconds; the simulation makes it possible to select different implant sizes and shapes and to see the individual result”. The outcome of the surgery can be seen in advance “The result can be seen immediately, even in the mirror. This allows the patient to get a feel for what her breasts will look like after the operation and which size and shape is right for her. The 3D image can be forwarded by email so that the patient can consult with her partner, friends or family. This also helps enormously with the decision-making.” Seven facts you should know about breast augmentation: 1. The goal: The aim of augmentation (breast enhancement) is a naturally enlarged breast without recognizable implants or an artificial appearance. The incision should be barely noticeable, and the new, enhanced breasts should have a tactile sensation similar to that of a natural breast. 2. Indication: Those suitable for breast augmentation are healthy, emotionally stable patients who have a realistic expectation regarding what can be achieved with a proper and precisely planned operation. Possible indications for breast augmentation are a) the aesthetic desire for larger breasts, b) breasts that are too small in relation to body size and weight, c) breasts of disproportionate sizes which can only be disguised by using bra inserts, and d) disorders such as the tubular breast that causes the breasts to have a “tubular” appearance. 3. The procedure: every patient’s body measurements, weight, breast and skin/soft tissue ratio are individual. Each operation, therefore, is a unique interaction of different components: the chosen surgical approach, the selected implant and, possibly, an accompanying measure such as an additional breast lift or nipple correction.… weiterlesen

All Eyes on the Mouth

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Lip augmentations are now more popular than ever The mouth is not only our most beautiful tool for speaking and kissing. Our lips convey emotions. They express what we’re thinking and feeling right at this moment. They influence how our environment perceives us. With a radiant smile we appear more friendly while drooping corners of the mouth make us look sad and ill-tempered. Whether it be in conversations with friends or with the boss, on a date or in the duckface pose for the next Selfie. The ideal lip shape But what does the most attractive lip shape actually look like? First of all: It is definitely not the ubiquitous pout, seen every day on numerous Instagram feeds. In a US study published by researchers on the Jama Facial Plastic Surgery platform, 428 people were presented with 100 portraits of women. The outcome was that the ideal is not the full, evenly-shaped lip. Which shape then? Optimally, the lower lip should be twice the size of the upper lip and occupy about 10 percent of the lower third of the face. At first glance, this may sound rather disproportionate. But in actual fact, it’s not. The pleasing, natural lip shape of model Miranda Kerr comes quite close to the ideal. But not everyone is lucky enough to have this and some would like a little help. Lip enlargement with hyaluronic acid “Lip augmentation is a frequently desired treatment to enlarge inherently narrow lips, especially with our younger patients. But it also plays an important role with older age groups in order to optically rejuvenate the area around the mouth. The aim here is to rebuild lost volume,” says Dr. Sonja Sattler from the Bellari Institute in Frankfurt and Hamburg. The most important aspect of lip fillers is the use of high-quality hyaluronic acid products. Cheap suppliers often use non-crosslinked hyaluronic acids, which only have a short-term effect. “Products which claim ‘lasting’ results are strongly discouraged, as they can lead to inflammatory nodules and asymmetry, even years later,” says Dr. Sattler. And: Since small injury points are caused by the needles being repeatedly placed on and under the red of the lips during an injection, frequent injections can lead to minor scarring here. The product should not contain any additives but should consist of pure hyaluronan. Dr. Sonja Sattler: “Unfortunately, we frequently see patients who come to us in desperation after suffering serious permanent consequences (bumps, etc.)… weiterlesen

The New Art of Body Shaping…

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…but it doesn’t always have to mean surgery The days of Size Zero are over – looking healthy and fit is considered sexy today and a lot can be achieved with regular exercise and a healthy diet. Nevertheless, there are parts of the body that even these can’t influence. Sometimes even the strictest diet and the most strenuous workout can’t help, especially in cases of genetically misplaced fat deposits or sagging skin after weight loss. Nature takes its toll as well and during the aging process, metabolic processes slow down, altering the hormone balance. The ratio of fat to muscle mass changes: Men suddenly develop breasts or so-called “love handles” in the hip area. With women it is often around the abdomen including the back, the “riding breeches” or the inner thighs. Liposuction is no substitute for a diet Every year the Rosenpark Klinik treats over 2000 patients in the field of body shaping. Of these, alone more than 1000 of them undergo liposuction which permanently reduces the excess amount of fat cells in the affected areas and the balances the silhouette. Those who believe that liposuction is a means to reduce weight are mistaken. “The sole purpose here is the harmonization of the body form and the removal of problem zones”, says Dr. Gerhard Sattler, head of the Rosenpark Klinik. The problem frequently addressed is that of the “riding breeches”. Regardless of whether they are slim or somewhat sturdier, countless women suffer from this unattractive deformation of the thighs which stems from an overabundance of fat cells. Liposuction is a proven method of reduction in this case and even if the patient gains weight over time, these disproportionate bulges will not develop again at the same place. “As an experienced practitioner, however, I always have to take the overall picture into consideration,” says Sattler. “The removal of a problem zone alone does not by any means ensure a beautiful body shape. In most cases, it therefore makes sense to treat further areas in order to create a harmonious silhouette”. The Vibration Cannula technique and Tumescent Local Anesthesia For over 19 years, several liposuction procedures have been performed daily at the Rosenpark Klinik. The vibration cannula technique is used in tumescent local anesthesia to remove excess fatty tissue painlessly and sustainably. Tumescent local anesthesia is a mixture of saline solution and local anesthetics. It not only numbs the tissue but softens the fat cells as well.… weiterlesen

What you always Wanted to Know…

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Questions and answers about Botulinum ” Solely the dose determines that a thing is not a poison” (Paracelsus, 1538) The term Botox has become so established in aesthetic language that everyone knows what it means. In actual fact, Botox is the name for one product alone – that of the US manufacturer Allergan: “The physician distinguishes between products for aesthetic treatment, such as Vistabel (Allergan), Bocouture (Merz), Azzalure (Galderma), and those for medical treatment such as Botox (Allergan), Xeomin (Merz), Dysport (Galderma),” explains Dr. Irina Izmaylova, Bellari team Dermatologist in Hamburg. Although everyone has heard or read quite a lot about this substance, which can do much more than just smooth wrinkles, it is still approached with uncertainty and reserve. Dr. Izmaylova answers the most important questions: Is botulinum really a poison? The substance, which is a protein produced by the bacterium Clostridium botulinum, is toxic in its untreated form and dosage. Under no circumstances does it come from snakes, as is often claimed. As a medicinal product, botulinum is used exclusively in its refined and strongly diluted form, rendering it a safe but effective medicine. It would probably take more than 3,000 vials to poison someone. What long-term experiences are there? Botulinum’s success story began in the fields of Ophthalmology and Neurology. It has been approved as a drug since 1989 and since then, has established itself in the treatment of severe neurological movement disorders. In January 2006, after lengthy clinical testing and reliable studies regarding safety and efficacy, the active ingredient was approved in Germany for the treatment of wrinkles. How does botulinum work exactly? Botulinum causes muscle relaxation and not paralysis, as is often claimed. It works more like a kind of brake to the muscles. For around about four to six months it inhibits the release of so-called messenger substances with which the nerves instruct the muscles to contract. It is precisely this muscle contraction that causes frown or worry lines for example. Once the active ingredient has broken down, the treated muscle strand regains its mobility to the same extent as before. Can organs be damaged in the process? Botulinum only works where it is injected. During wrinkle treatment, it does not enter the bloodstream so organs such as the liver cannot be damaged. The complex protein is completely broken down in a specific way. Histological research has not shown any tissue changes in the body, even after prolonged use.… weiterlesen

Micro-Punctures Bring Great Results

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With Microneedling you simply roll away the signs of age Although our skin is capable of self-renewal well into old age, the cells become somewhat sluggish over time and require some stimulus to boost their natural potential for regeneration. Microneedling helps the tissues to renew themselves from the inside. Ultra-fine needles attached to a roller or a treatment head are used to treat the skin surface precisely and gently and without causing stress. The resulting micro-injuries stimulate cell growth and strengthen resilience. In this way, acne scars and small wrinkles can be alleviated, pores reduced and the first signs of skin aging gently smoothed away. The result is a rosy, fine-pored and softer complexion. “Although there are different forms of microneedling, they all pursue the same goal: regeneration and refinement of the skin,” says Winona Kallenbach, beautician and store manager at the Bellari Institute in Hamburg. With or without anesthesia? After thorough cleansing and disinfection of the skin, an anaesthetic cream can be applied locally for more sensitive customers. As a rule, however, the treatment can be carried out without anaesthesia. Following application of the cream, the skin must be disinfected again after which the selected areas are treated with either a Dermaroller or the Skin-Needler. There is no bleeding when the needling is carried out by a beautician, since the needles do not penetrate as deeply as they would when the treatment is performed by a doctor. Vitamin C increases the effect Kallenbach: “In order to take full advantage of the needling effect, a pre-treatment with care products containing Vitamin A and C is recommended”. These support the regeneration mechanisms of the skin in the formation of new collagen. If a vitamin C serum is applied directly after needling, it can penetrate the skin surface to a deeper level and develop its effect more efficiently. Depending on skin type, skin condition and requirement, a cooling mask, e.g. with hyaluronic acid, is then applied. If the irritation is more severe, a skin-soothing mask is used. The Importance of After Care For an optimal result, six sessions at intervals of one week are recommended. Normally no downtime is necessary following needling therapy by a beautician. There is only a temporary redness and a perceptible, if not visible skin exfoliation during the first few days. Sensitive patients in particular may possibly also develop small but harmless pustules. Increased protection of the skin against light should be observed for four weeks prior to and after micro-needling.… weiterlesen

The All-Rounder Hyaluronic Acid

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Does more than just smooth wrinkles Dermatologist Dr. Birgit Buxmeyer has been a member of the Rosenpark Klinik team since 1999. In addition to specializing in surgical procedures such as liposuction and eyelid lifting, she has gained an additional qualification in Anti-Aging. At Bellari she is responsible for treatments with botulinum, hyaluronic acid, laser and ultherapy. In this C&C interview, Dr. Buxmeyer explains why hyaluronic acid is today’s material of choice in the treatment of wrinkles as well as facial skin and contour optimization: What can one do with hyaluronic acid? These days, quite a lot! The material has become extremely versatile and the range of products is extensive. Finer lines can be smoothed, and medium-depth wrinkles lifted, or the volume augmented for better moisture penetration of the skin and contour improvement. Hyaluronic acid is degradable in the tissues and, since it is now exclusively synthetically-produced, is very well tolerated. In the past, it was commonly extracted from cockscomb. What are the uses of hyaluronic acid? Thin hyaluronic acid, i.e. hyaluronic acid with little or no cross-linking, is suitable for skin surfaces in order to improve moisture penetration. It practically melts in the tissues and is a moisture booster. The thick variant provides volume, for example to hollow areas of the face. The effect is almost as good as when own fat is used. If the patient is very slim with no body fat at all, hyaluronic acid is the best alternative. Nowadays, it can even be used to treat the thin skin of the lower eyelid (Volbella by Allergan), which was not possible before. Which corrections do women ask for most frequently? The patients are not yet as advanced as the practitioners. Many still want to have the nasolabial folds injected. This is an antiquated method, dating back to over 15 years ago. Today the areas adjacent and corresponding to the nasolabial fold are treated. If one repeatedly injects the crease itself, over time, a sort of monkey’s nose is the result. This is because, due to age, the surrounding areas become more sunken. This must first be explained to the patients. Young women often have their tear ducts treated because they look tired. In somewhat older patients it is the cheek and temple region. This is due to the fact that not only the fatty tissue shrinks and shifts with age – the bone structure recedes as well. Often something is missing at the jaw angle, which causes the so-called marionette or Merkel wrinkles.… weiterlesen