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Author: Margit Rüdiger

CultureAndCream Author from Munich To travel during my profession as a beauty journalist was never enough for my. Also my six month on a world trip didn't do it. It always attracts me to other cities, foreign countries, on roadtrips and places I don't know yet. But I am not only interested in "culture" and "cream", I am also fascinated by people who have stories to tell .  Such unique experiences I want to share with you.

No Hollywood Celebrity could Resist this Scent

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The list of proms is endless. Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn, Marlene Dietrich were addicted to Krigler fragrances. Also the eccentric writer Ernest Hemingway and the legendary style icon Jackie Kennedy wore them. Today Ben Krigler, a trained chemist, continues the tradition of the luxury perfume house in the fifth generation. With a lot of empathy and creativity as we learned during the C&C-Interview: Do you remember your very first contact and experience with fragrance? Yes, it was when I was a child and my mother was working on perfumes she was creating for a client. She was mixing essences and I couldn’t understand at first what she was doing. She then explained to me that she was creating scents we smell. For a while as a child, I thought that she was creating every scents in the world. The scent of flowers, the scent of the ocean, the scent of food. For a while, she was like God. Then I understood. Which celebrities impressed you the most? In our situation, our fragrances have been adopted by celebrities. Mostly, the fragrances were purchased by celebrities. Such as Grace Kelly who was a client of our house in New York in the 1950s. She purchased Chateau Krigler 12 when she was still a debutante and a young actress. At Krigler, the most important part is the story behind the fragrance and that is what touches everybody, celebrities or you. F. Scott Fitzgerald and Marlene Dietrich both wore once Lieber Gustav 14. It’s the perfect example of a story that inspires people’s mind and chemistry. The fragrance was created as a symbol of eternal love between two human beeings in Berlin and Provence. It was a bridge over barriers. Is there a fragrance you have created exclusively for yourself? I have created Sierra Vista 2142 specifically for myself. But I launched it in 2014.
I just wanted to have a fragrance in the collection that embodies everything I like on me. What I do is I mix a lot of fragrances together on me, that’s my kind of exclusivity even though, anybody could do it. Please name a fragrance ingredient which will never be used by Krigler? Well today, I would say anything coming from animals. And I’m so glad for that. The industry has luckily evolved a lot. Which questions do you ask the person before you create a customized fragrance? There are about hundreds of questions we ask.… weiterlesen

In Search of the Blue Domes

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I may have found the famous postcard motif, but the myth of Santorini still evades me. I am torn between the goodwill I normally extend to a holiday destination that is new to me and the gut feeling I trust that when something just doesn’t seem right. And since I took this trip at my own expense, I am free to write the truth as I see it. So, my opinion: Santorini is completely overrated. Yes, the picturesque little villages with their white houses nestling on on the slopes or clustering around a hill are lovely. But this is the case on every Cycladic island. And yes, there are glorious sunsets to watch. But aren’t these to be found everywhere? Even at home in Bavaria? Volcano born In terms of geography and history, Santorini or Thera – as the Greeks call it – is an anomaly. The 92.5 km² large archipelago in the south of the Cyclades consists of five islands, formed by volcanic activities 3,600 years ago. The main island Thira, and the islands Thirasia and Aspronisi are grouped in a ring around the water-flooded Caldera, a kind of huge cauldron said to be around 400 meters deep. In its centre lie the two islands Palea Kameni and Nea Kameni, where the last volcanic eruption took place in 1950. So much for history. Donkey tour, no thanks! In aiming to do some relaxed exploring of Santorini at the end of June, I perhaps just picked the wrong month, It was not relaxed at all. Hordes of people pour off the cruise ships and, at a time, up to seven of these ocean giants can be found at anchor in the Caldera just outside the capital Firá. Once on land, passengers are carried up the steep path by donkey or mule. The “donkey tour” is also popular with those tourists not on cruise ships. This is just incomprehensible to me which is why I wasn’t tempted to take any photos. How can one enjoy such a ride, seeing the distraught animals toiling in the blazing sun, pressing themselves against the rocks in desperate search of shade. Without water, without food. After all, for a mere 6 Euros, the 220 meters to the top and back can easily be reached by cable car. Or one can walk up the 588 steps of the serpentine-like Karavolades stairs connecting Firá with the old port.… weiterlesen

Who really Wants to Look Sad and Tired?

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Unfortunately, when the eyebrows lower, this is usually the result. Often a small injection can help but sometimes more is needed. After an eyebrow lift, however, the face can look years younger. The eyebrows act as a sort of frame and give contour to the face. If they start to droop, the effect on the facial expression usually isn’t very positive “Many people look tired, exhausted or even unfriendly, even though they may feel fit, active and alert,” confirms Dr. Stefan Kalthoff of the Rosenpark Klinik in Darmstadt. Genetic predisposition or lifestyle consequences Such visible changes usually begin at the age of 40. “Our genetic predisposition plays an important role in this respect, but lifestyle can also influence the elasticity of the skin,” says Dr. Kalthoff. Because they press on the upper eyelid, sagging eyebrows can also cause the eyelids to droop and the field of vision may even be impaired. Since the muscle that lifts the eyebrows must constantly work against gravity, more wrinkles form on the forehead. The problem can be solved with a brow lift. This is a small, often underestimated operation with a huge effect, making the face immediately appear fresher and more open. It is essential, however, that the treatment be carried out by an expert and that a detailed consultation takes place beforehand. Browlift with Botox The easiest and quickest way to lift the eyebrows is with Botox. The botulinum toxin is injected above the eyebrow into the muscle which is responsible for its sinking. This creates a lifting effect that raises the eyebrow by about one to three millimeters. As the brow moves upwards, the eyelids also droop less. Since the change is minimal, it is not suited to cases where there is an extreme degree of sagging. The effect does not set in until about seven to ten days after the injection and wears off after four to six months. The advantage of this minimally invasive method is that the procedure is quick, painless and low risk. At the most, there may be small bruises and slight swelling at the injection site. Microfocused ultrasound Ultherapy is a non-invasive method for lifting the eyebrows which, on average, can achieve 2 to 3 millimeters. Dr. Sonja Sattler: “With Ultherapy’s microfocused ultrasound, the eyebrows, and thus the upper eyelid as well, can be gently lifted and shaped without surgery. Either the entire brow or the outer area alone is treated.… weiterlesen

Blue Hour at the Murnau Alpenhof

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When art, gastronomy and nature form an alliance, something very special comes into being. With three such mainstays, nothing can go wrong. Christian Bär (in the picture on the left), the congenial Murnau Alpenhof hotelier, extended an invitation to the festive installation of the exclusively designed Blue Chairs in his new garden. His motto: “A View of the Blue Country”. And indeed, all signs pointed towards blue. In the presence of Dr. Brigitte Salmen, Blaue Reiter (Blue Rider) expert, author, initiator and former director of the Murnau Castle Museum, the two blue, sculptured outdoor chairs, created by Ascona designer Carlo Rampazzi (in the picture on the right) and manufactured at the Sergio Villa’s Monza Studio, were unveiled. Blue cocktails were served, and Chef Claus Gromotka created a Diner en bleu for the Soirée bleu. And, as if in honour of this opening evening, the shimmering blue of the mountains changed to a soft pink at sunset. Unique blue pieces Up until this autumn, guests can enjoy the “View of the Blue Country” from the Blue Chairs and pose in them for photographs to their hearts’ content. “Everyone should take something blue with them from their stay at the Alpenhof,” says hotel manager Christian Bär. But if you want to become the proud owner of one of Carlo Rampazzi’s chairs, you’ll have to dig a little deeper into your pocket. The unique, handmade chairs cost around 4000 Euros each and it takes at least two weeks for one to leave Sergio Villa’s studio. Rampazzi: “Even a mistake made by a craftsman is a bit of art. And that’s what I like.” So far, only 25 of his blue metal armchairs can be found worldwide, so it’s unlikely that your neighbour will already have one in his garden. Carlo Rampazzi calls them relaxing chairs and indeed their shape, which fits snugly to the body, makes them very comfortable to sit in. The King of Colours “In the beginning we made the chairs in several different colours,” says Signore Rampazzi, “but our customers wanted only blue. So the chairs were born in blue, so to speak”. Originally they came with cushions of the same colour. “But they were just over the top. The armchair is a sculpture and that just took away from its beauty,” says the designer. For Rampazzi’s usually opulent style, the chairs are rather modest. Villas and apartments from Milan to Paris, from Miami to St.… weiterlesen

We need the Sun…

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…but we must safeguard our skin from its rays as well. What is the most effective way to protect ourselves and what can be done if the UV rays have already caused skin damage. Our relationship to the sun is ambivalent. We love it because it warms us, brightens our mood and gives our complexion a beautiful color. On the other hand, every sunburn increases the risk of skin cancer. So, here’s a little test to see how well you know how to deal with the sun. Did you know? The sun protection factor (SPF) multiplied by the skin’s own protection time indicates the amount of time one can be in the sun without any skin damage being caused. For example: SPF 30 at 10 minutes self-protection time, i.e. 30 x 10, results in 300 sun minutes with regular reapplication of sunscreen. However, dermatologists recommend moving into the shade after two thirds of the maximum time. Self-protection is the period of time during which the skin can protect itself from the sun. Depending on the skin type, this ranges between 5 and 15 minutes in our latitudes. If a sunscreen product is used, it can be extended according to the SPF. The amount of product necessary to provide adequate protection is more than you may think: About two milliliters are needed per square centimeter of skin, which corresponds to three tablespoons for the whole body. “Sun terraces” such as the forehead, nose, ears, neck, shoulders, décolleté and the arch of the foot usually need more. Sun cream should be applied every two hours. This is the only way to maintain the level of protection, as sweat, water and sand tend to remove the UV filters. It’s a common misconception, however, that that this prolongs the protective effect. Sun protection filters are distinguished by two operating principles: Mineral UV filters lie on the skin and reflect sunlight like small mirrors. They consist of natural, white pigments such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Chemical UV filters penetrate the outer layer of the epidermis and absorb the rays. Benzone, trisiloxane or drometrizole, for example, are listed on the packaging. The UV rays have different wavelengths. While short-wave UV-B rays cause sunburn, long-wave UV-A contributes to skin ageing. The indicated sun protection factor (SPF) refers only to UV-B. For this reason, it’s advisable to look for the UV-A seal on the packaging. How does the expert protect herself?… weiterlesen

Mykonos and Delos – Two Worlds

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So near and yet so far. Only 40 minutes by ferry separate the two Aegean islands. But the difference couldn’t be greater. Mykonos: shopping and partying The modern Bohemian hustle and bustle of old and new hippies. Party till dawn. That’s what I’ve always heard about the island. But there are two distinct sides to Mykonos and by that I mean Mykonos Town. Chora is the name given by the Mykonites to a central place. During the day the city shines in the glistening white of the Cycladic houses and the dazzling blue of the sea. It feels as if I’m seeing real light for the first time, that’s how blinded I am. There’s a good reason why one shop after the other here sells sunglasses! Shopping in Mykonos is a lot of fun anyway. Be sure to visit Dimitris Halvatzis (#dimitrishalvatzis) and Mykonos Sandals. The narrow cobbled uphill and downhill streets are a labyrinth where visitors just love to get lost. Waiting around every corner is a new pretty shop, a cute restaurant or one of the countless mini churches. The squares with their restaurants, bars and cafés are often no bigger than a postage stamp. The edges of the houses are marshmallow round. Dresses, shoes, scarves and bags are trimmed with pom-poms. Everything is so cute that you can hardly describe anything without using words like sweet or pretty. This applies to Little Venice as well, a little gem with Venetian-style terraces and wooden balconies, overlooking the sea. A view of the famous white windmills, the landmark of the island, comes along the 5 Euro cup of cappuccino. For almost 400 years, all the grain was ground in the ten 16th century Kato Mili, of which five have been preserved. One of them now houses a museum. While the town is a bustling hive of activity during the day, it puts on its most glamourous face after sunset. Chains of lights twinkle everywhere, often strung between palm trees and bougainvilleas. The sun sinks into the sea in theatrical redness. And the starry sky – nowhere else could it be more beautiful. The clientele, mostly young, beautiful, hetero or gay – but above all well-heeled – glitters just as brightly. Up to 10 Euros for a beer is not uncommon. The most pleasant thing about all the hustle and bustle: the Mykonites take everything with relaxed friendliness and unshakeable tolerance, at the same time making one thing very clear: they are and remain the boss in the house.… weiterlesen

The Triangle of Beauty

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Decreasing volume causes the face to sag. The once narrow, defined chin area becomes wider and slack. Aesthetic goal: to rebuild facial harmony. From about the age of 25, gravity begins to constantly pull on the contours of the body. The aging process in the face becomes particularly clear when the so-called triangle of beauty is reversed. The youthful face has high cheekbones with full cheeks and a well-defined contour with a narrow chin where the imaginary triangle converges. When skin density and volume distribution change, the triangle is turned upside down. The broader part now lies in the lower area of the face with a widened, slacker chin contour and a sagging cheek area. The overall impression is often seen as sad and stressed. Unjustly neglected “It is quite normal that during our aging process not only the tissue sags, but bone substance is lost as well. This gradually changes the shape of the face and, in particular, the chin and jaw area suffer from the aging process. The reconstruction of this area to attain facial harmony was unduly neglected in aesthetic medicine for years,” confirms Dr. Gerhard Sattler, co-founder of the Bellari Institutes and Medical Director of the Rosenpark Klinik. Deep Tissue build-up To rebuild the chin and jaw area special fillers or, more precisely, injectable implants such as the new Juvéderm Volux, are required, which can be inserted deeper into the tissue. In contrast to superficial hyaluronic acid injections to combat wrinkles and fine lines, the tissue must be built up from below. The Vycross technology was developed for this purpose. It combines hyaluronic acid molecules of low and high molecular weight to form a tightly cross-linked gel. In the skin, this implant has a long duration of action and low water absorption. In this way, the effect is maintained for up to 24 months. Determination of width In the treatment of the chin, a series of injections is first placed directly on the mentum, the bone at the chin. Five to seven injection points are required for this width determination. Subsequently, three to five points of volume are injected into the chin (pogonion), directly under the muscle. First of all, the chin is extended and its width determined, then the volume or the actual chin is formed. The fold above the chin can also be optimally compensated with Volux. Since Volux is combined with the anesthetic Lidocaine, the patient feels almost nothing from the injection.… weiterlesen

The Way back to an Alert and Youthful Look

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The most efficient methods to effectively correct drooping eyelids in adherence with individual characteristics. An excess of skin on the upper eyelid can be the cause of so-called drooping eyelids which always make one look tired and worn out or even unfriendly. If the underlying musculature slackens in the course of skin aging, the drooping eyelids become more pronounced or may then even start to develop. Several methods are now available to correct this. In the case of slightly drooping eyelids, a new, non-invasive procedure with atmospheric plasma, which does not require the use of a scalpel, can be applied. The energy is transferred to the skin surface by the device in the form of a plasma beam, creating micro-wounds on the skin. These stimulate the wound healing process, resulting in a visible tightening of the skin. Usually only one outpatient treatment is necessary – the result can already be seen after seven to ten days. During this time, however, one must expect the treated area to become incrusted. If the skin of the upper eyelid is more slack, however, only the scalpel can help. The Darmstadt Rosenpark Klinik’s Dr. Stefan Kalthoff explains how a classic eyelid lift works. What causes drooping eyelids? Drooping eyelids are often inherent in the patient’s own genes. In addition, skin elasticity decreases with age. People who have always had drooping eyelids find that they are no longer able to see everything. The drooping upper eyelid literally robs them of their sight and severely restricts their field of vision. At what age does it usually begin? The process of skin aging is genetically programmed and takes place in the dermis, the thick layer of living tissue below the epidermis. This skin layer consists of connective tissue cells and connective tissue fibres such as collagen and elastin which give the skin its elasticity and resilience. With increasing age, the skin tissue loses collagen and elastin. The skin becomes thinner, water and fat content decrease. Most people first show signs of skin ageing from around the age of 35. Due to the loss of elasticity, genetically created drooping eyelids become even more pronounced. This affects both women and men. What is done during the procedure? During upper eyelid lifting, excess skin is reduced and any sagging muscles and protruding fatty tissue are removed. The fine eyelid skin is then closed with the thinnest suture material. This creates only a very fine scar in the crease of the eyelid.… weiterlesen

Muscle Building without Exercise. Is that possible?

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Yes, a new device from the USA can develop the muscles without any sweat-inducing training. A flat stomach and a firm bottom are at the top of most people’s wish list for the body, be it women or men. But these require years of exercise, a lot of stamina and countless sit ups and squats. Emusculpt, a new device from the USA based on electromagnetic waves, now makes this goal much easier to achieve. The effect of a 30-minute session is comparable to that of 20,000 sit-ups or the same amount of squats. This comparison is, however, misleading since such training would be physically impossible in a fitness studio. Whereas sit-ups use about 40 percent of the muscles, Emsculpt works on 100 percent. “In general, the device is recommended for those body-savvy people who want an extra push in addition to normal training,” says Dr. Sonja Sattler, Medical Director of the Bellari Institute. How does Emsculpt work? Unlike conventional EMS devices (electromyostimulation), it does not work with electrical impulses, but with Emusculpt. These penetrate deeper into the tissue and thus ensure a much more effective result. The generation of an electromagnetic field stimulates the muscle groups to thousands of contractions. The muscles are shaken up, so to speak. In this way, the muscle mass in the desired body zones can be increased significantly and very quickly. An additional plus in the abdominal area: a decrease in fatty deposits. This is because the turbo activity of the muscles overstimulates the fat metabolism and permanently breaks down local fat cells. Dr. Sattler: “For me, however, the clear focus here is on muscle mass and not on the pleasant side effect of fat reduction”. What happens during the treatment? One relaxes comfortably on the couch and the flat, impulse-emitting handpiece is strapped to the area to be treated. As soon as the intensity is fixed, ideally at 100, the device starts to work. At first one feels a strong contraction which, within the next 30 minutes, develops into a firm hold and causes the target region to freeze for a few seconds at a time. It is intermittently interrupted by the so-called “relaxing tapping”. The individually adjustable intensity ensures that the treatment is as pleasant as possible, even for pain-sensitive patients. Is it painful? Depending on the intensity, it may feel slightly unpleasant, but never painful. After completion of the treatment, one is immediately fit again and can go about everyday life without any restrictions.… weiterlesen

Wendy Iles: I just Love Hair!

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She is the hairdresser to celebrities like Heidi Klum, Keira Knightley und Cate Blanchett. With C&C she is sharing her secrets of success, her tips, tricks and how-to-do guides. C&C: You received the Hollywood Beauty Oscar for hair in 2016. Wendy Iles: That is nice that you remember that. I always forget about all the time. But it was one of the magic memorable moments other than my marriage to my husband. You obviously must do something special compared to other stylists? It is in my DNA as a hairdresser to care for hair. I love luscious sumptuous hair. If I have someone in my chair, I am always thinking of care first. So I do believe that this was a breath of fresh air when it came to A-listers in my chair and I do believe that it opened up Hollywood for me very quickly. Because all of a sudden there was this hairdresser that was not using hairspray, that was not using mousses. The hair was not sticky. It was not weight down. They would go from a 12 hour shoot to a cocktail to a party, and still at midnight the hair is feeling luscious, clean and beautiful. I honestly think really that is the reason that I care about the hair and I love hair that is touchable and luscious. Which is the absolute must have from your own hair care „Iles Formula“? On a job like mine I don’t have always access to running water. So you get the A-lister in your chair and you have to make whatever you got to happen with what is in your chair. A lot of the time it is tortured hair. I have a serum that has the capability of turning straw to sumptuous silk just by blow drying it in. How do you use this serum? The hair must be at least moistened. In fact my two tools are the Dyson and that „Finishing Serum“. The Dyson because it is really quick, it is ionic, I am not gonna get static, and the serum needs the heat of the hair dryer. You just blow dry it in, never on the roots – always mid length and ends and you dry small piece size on every single section. As you go the serum has the power of turning straw to sumptuous silk. It has the power of making thin, broken fine hair appear and feel thicker.… weiterlesen