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Are you Suffering from Maskne?

Written by Margit Rüdiger on . Posted in Health & Beauty.

This is not a stupid misspelling, but the latest international term related to the corona pandemic. Mask-ne consists of the two words mask and acne and describes a skin problem that can affect everyone – women and men. The street scene worldwide is dominated by masks. They are now available as fashion accessories with the most unusual patterns and colors. Unfortunately, the skin underneath often looks less beautiful. The problem is called Masken. It is used to describe the skin irritations and pimples that spread under the fabric. This is due to the so-called occlusion effect. The mask prevents sweat and heat from being released normally by the skin and evaporates. Instead, heat builds up, causing the horny layer to swell. This makes it more permeable to pollutants. The moisture that favors this bacterial formation also reduces the permeability of the mask, which makes breathing more difficult. Especially in summer, when you sweat more anyway, this skin irritation can increase.In addition, the sebum gland activity increases, which in turn can be a breeding ground for bacteria and consequent impurities. A kind of perioral dermatitis develops, a rash around the mouth. This is not acne in the classic sense, but rather an acne mechanica that has mechanical triggers like the friction of fabric. It is known from football players who have to wear a helmet with a chin strap for many hours and then have inflammation and irritation at this point, which can lead to clogged pores and deep acne cysts. “We also observed cases of mask, a dermatitis caused by wearing a mask, during the SARS epidemic,” says Dr. Michelle Henry, dermatologist in New York. Increased hormone releases such as the stress hormone cortisol can also play a role because it stimulates the sebaceous glands and thus also provokes acne. And who is not stressed during this time! A worldwide problem In the current Covid19 times, the maskne phenomenon can be observed globally. American nurses report how their skin has deteriorated since the constant mask requirement. They say that if you wear an N95 mask (highest security level) and then a surgical mask over it, the bacterial growth on the skin develops like in a petri dish in a laboratory. Quickly and generously. The Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology published a study that found that 97 percent of staff in the central Chinese province of Hubei had skin problems caused by wearing the masks.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Juchheim Cosmetics „ByeByeCellulite“

Written by Margit Rüdiger on . Posted in #me.

This time I have chosen a topic that concerns (almost) all women: cellulite. It has long been known that it arises from the interaction of genes, hormones and the percentage of body fat. Stress, nutrition, lack of exercise as well as alcohol and smoking can also contribute to it. And the more fat the cells store, the more they push out through the connective tissue strands. So far, no cosmetic herb, i.e. cream, has been able to combat cellulite. Until the Munich doctor Dr. Jürgen Juchheim launched his Effect Cosmetic on the market. These include “ByeBye Cellulite”, which is praised by instagramers and bloggers as a miracle cream. I wanted to know that more precisely. And I took a lot of time with the test and I have invested some money – not just a little. In the meantime the third jar is in use since I use cream twice a day, morning and evening. As red as a suburn After the first application, the skin is as red as a sunburn for about an hour, but this wears off after just under a week. The prerequisite is that you don’t apply too much of the cream. It happened to me too! The reddening of the skin, which also indicates an increase in blood flow, is caused by the nettle extract. In addition, the plant substance fisetin, which is known to remove damaged cells, is supposed to empty the enlarged fat cells. Carnitine boosts fat metabolism. The cream is better absorbed by the skin if it is free of shower gel or other products. The manufacturer recommends cleaning them beforehand with a Juchheim tonic. I save that, as do the rubber gloves that users report on internet that they use to apply. Afterwards I simply wash my hands thoroughly with soap (also under the fingernails) and make the Cellulite treatment the last step of my bathroom routine to be on the safe side. So it is the turn of the face first, then the body. In fact, the thighs look smoother right after the first application. But this is only temporary and disappears together with the reddening. Actually it is after six weeks of regular creaming that I notice a slight improvement. I want to know more about it and keep going. After another four weeks, my thighs are visibly smoother and the tissue feels firmer.Thanks to vitamin E and soybean and sunflower oil, the complexion is smoother all in all.… weiterlesen

What Exactly Are Peptides?

Written by Margit Rüdiger on . Posted in Health & Beauty.

The term peptides is used time and again in skin care products. If you believe the advertising, true power molecules are hidden behind it, which smooth wrinkles, tighten and refresh the skin. And they also make the muscles grow. “First and foremost, peptides help to form the collagen and elastin fibers that are everywhere in our skin. It’s short chains of amino acids that tell the body to produce more collagen.” This is how Ron Robinson, my favorite cosmetic chemist in New York, who has an answer to every beauty question, explains the phenomenon of peptides. Roger that. Peptides are something like little messengers that deliver messages. Roger that. In this case, they signal the cells to start the skin’s natural regeneration process.But why are there so many different peptides? Robinson has an explanation for that too. „Since peptides are composed of up to 50 amino acids, they are incredibly changeable. All you have to do is add, remove or replace an amino acid and you have already created a new peptide that again fulfills new functions.“ This can be smoothing or strengthening, it can have an anti-inflammatory effect or keep the moisture in the skin for longer. Chain reaction To go a little deeper: Proteins such as collagen consist of chains of peptides, which in turn consist of amino acids. There are hundreds of peptides, and each peptide is made from a combination of amino acids. If peptides are combined in a certain way, they form proteins. Proteins in turn are composed of one or more polypeptide chains. The length of these chains can vary from approx. 40 to over 4,000 amino acids. To speak of the one peptide would be wrong. Peptides are rather a whole group with a wide variety of tasks and functions. Of the many peptides, tetrapeptides (they have four amino acids) and hexapeptides with six amino acids are often used in skin care. Due to their special chemical structure, both perform a wide variety of tasks: Hexapeptides can reduce stubborn expression lines, while tetrapeptides promote elasticity and firmness of the skin. Molecules which have at least ten amino acids are generally classified as polypeptides. Shorter polypeptides are called oligopeptides. The individual amino acids are linked by so-called peptide bonds. Incidentally, this was researched in 1902 by the German chemist and later Nobel laureate Emil Fischer. Peptides instead of botox Agireline (INCI name: Acetyl-Hexapeptide 3), which is said to have a botox-like effect, is one of the best known oligo- or hexapeptides.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Doctor Mi! „LIP TECMI! Retinol“

Written by Margit Rüdiger on . Posted in #me.

Due to the daily mask requirement I have been struggling with extremely dry lips lately. Most lipcare products didn’t help. Even worse, I felt that I had to use more and more cream. I was convinced by “Tecmi! Retinol”, which I’ve been using for a four weeks now. The first time I applied it, I was a bit confused because the cream initially feels like a light peeling on the lips. The feeling disappears quickly when you move your lips against each other. Encapsulated retinol and high-dose vitamin C are released to protect the sensitive lip skin from external influences and to support cell renewal. Mango butter, jojoba and argan oil result in a super smooth effect. What I also like is the slight warming effect, which lasts quite a long time and suggests a blood circulation increasing effect. This visibly intensifies the lip red. As recommended in the package insert, I also spread the cream over the lip of the lip to refine the small lines of expression. Doesn’t work immediately of course. But over time it seems to me that the upper lip is actually getting a little smoother. I always carry “Tecmi!” with me so that I can use it during the day when my lips are getting drier again. What I am currently testing is to needle the cream in the evenings – and only in the evening! – with a dermaroller into the lip’s skin. Stings a little bit, but is bearable. But one must not press too hard. This treatment should intensify the effect of the product and make the lips a little more voluminous and plump and reduce wrinkles. I have not yet noticed the former, but the fine lines have actually become fewer. I keep on rolling! Doctor Mi! „LIP TECMI! Retinol“, € 59… weiterlesen

Nutritional Supplements. Not always without Risk!

Written by Margit Rüdiger on . Posted in Health & Beauty.

Wherever you look – nutricosmetics. You find them everywhere, in pharmacies, drugstores, departmentstores and luxury beauty shops. Even in groceries the shelves are full of them. The big beauty companies as well as the smallest doctor brands have extended their lines with beauty pills and powders and drinks. But this „beauty from within“ is not always without risk. Karen Grant, Global Beauty Industry Analyst of the NPD Group, provides a comprehensive view of the market. She says: „A huge turnover of 133 Billion US Dollar is made worldwide with beauty supplements.“ Even the Germans spended over two billion euros for food supplements in 2018 – upward tendency. Online has the lion’s share. For example, if you search on the luxury online platform net-a-porter for „food supplement“, you won’t get less than 94 products as an result. They all promise „beauty from within“. Who has never ordererd his magnesium or vitamin C online“? Or was tempted to click on „order now“ of an Instagram post, when there was advertised a “Glow Inner Beauty Powder“ or the „Ageless Beauty Vitamin“. Pill instead of cream According to studies, it is precisely the millennials in Europe and Asia, who choose more often a proactive approach. They turn away from traditionell skin care products, especially from antiaging creams. They prefer pills, shots and teas for their overall wellness. Prominent beauty women do their part. So Heidi Klum advertises a tablet „that makes my skin, hair and nails beautiful like never before“. Gwyneth Paltrow sells on her „Goop Wellness“ platform several sticks und gums for more energy, a clear mind and more glow for the skin. Her pill cocktail „The Mother Load“ is designed for women before, during and after pregnancy. However, this product has already come under fire from experts. According to WHO (World Health Organisation) pregnant women shouldn’t take food supplements containing vitamin A. It could harm the unborn child. Doubtful benefits If you look at the ingredients on the packaging, there is nothing wrong with most of them on the first sight. Often they contain physiological substances like collagen and hyaluronic acid. These are responsible in the body for the elasticity of the skin and the connective tissue. Their natural production is reduced in the body from the age of 20. In addition, there are usually found minerals, trace elements like zinc, several vitamins and antioxidants in these beauty pills.There are already jelly bears with hyaluronic acid and collagen available.… weiterlesen

Hyaluronic Acid: What Advantage does it Really have in Creams?

Written by Margit Rüdiger on . Posted in Cream.

Whether day skin care, serum or gel, hyaluronic acid is lauded as THE miracle weapon in the field of anti-aging. It is purported to cushion the skin, smooth wrinkles and balance roughness. But is the praise really justified? The body’s own natural substance Hyaluronic acid (HA for short) is, at least, not foreign to the body. Chemically speaking, it is a polysaccharide, i.e. a multiple sugar, and thus an important component of various types of connective tissue. It is the main component of our synovial fluid and lubricates the joints. The largest proportion of HA, about 50 percent, is stored in the skin. Its task is to bind enormous amounts of water – up to six liters per gram. Unfortunately, the body’s own production also decreases with age, starting from around the age of 25. At 50, the water reservoirs are only half full and this begins to become noticeable in the outside appearance: Fine lines and wrinkles, sunken cheeks, crow’s feet or a deepening of the nasolabial fold are classic signs of hyaluronic acid deficiency. The elasticity of one’s own skin, the so-called skin turgor, can be measured easily: one raises a skin fold on the hand with two fingers and releases it. Depending on the moisture content, the wrinkle remains or restores itself elastically. By the way, cracking joints are also an indication that hyaluronic acid is decreasng in the synovial fluid. Chain reaction The empty depots cannot be filled as easily as one might imagine, and certainly not with an externally applied cream. Whether this has an effect and what that effect may be is mainly due to the size of the HA molecules. Simone Presto, physician and expert for the Eucerin HyaluronPlus series, confirms this: “The long-chain (high-molecular) hyaluronic acid is a very large molecule which remains on the skin. The medium-chain hyaluronic acid penetrates a little deeper into the superficial skin layers through the epidermis, up to about the middle of the 12 epidermal layers. The short-chain (low-molecular) hyaluronic acid can penetrate more deeply.” But, as the doctor admits, there is a limit here as well. Even the smallest HA molecules cannot break through the basal membrane, the bottom layer of the epidermis, where cells are constantly produced. No innovative cosmetic can overcome this. The short-chain hyaluronic acid is deposited there and swells up because it binds water from the tissue. In this way, it can not only ensure that wrinkles become flatter, but also that cell communication is maintained.… weiterlesen

Pigment Spots: Harmless, but Annoying!

Written by Margit Rüdiger on . Posted in Cream.

Although from a medical point of view the brown spots are harmless, visually they can be quite disturbing. There are many methods of treating them and one of the most modern is fractional laser technology. Pigment spots commonly appear on the forehead, the cheek area and above the upper lip. Most hyperpigmentation spots are caused by exposure to sunlight and for this reason, frequently develop on the back of the hand or on the forearms, areas which often less protected against light. If someone has spent a lot of time in the sun, the first brown spots may already appear at the age of 35 or 40. The skin then often looks blotchy and prematurely aged. Hormones and sun “As with genetically caused freckles, these are caused by an excess of the pigment melanin. In both cases of over-pigmentation, the dark spots are intensified by UV radiation,” explains Dr. Sonja Sattler, founder and senior physician at Bellari Rosenpark in Frankfurt and Hamburg. Hormones can also have a lot to do with the development of pigment spots. These are then known as melasma or chloasma and are common during pregnancy, menopause, or during a hormone treatment to increase fertility. It is not known exactly how hormones promote the development of spots, but it is a fact that the combination of hormones, sun and blue light as well as genetic predisposition is the trigger. Once the spots are there, they stubbornly remain, even after the hormone balance has levelled off again. Certain types of medication, such as some antibiotics or St. John’s Wort preparations, can also cause hyperpigmentation under UV influence. Prevention and treatment Dr. Sattler therefore advises: “Because UV light, in combination with our skin memory, is responsible for the unsightly spots, anyone with a tendency towards pigment spots should, in general, choose a skin care preparation with a high sun protection factor (e.g. SkinCeuticals Ultra Facial Defense 50+) for use during the day. If pigment spots are already visible and, depending on their severity, fruit acid peeling or laser combination treatments are suitable. “Bellari offers SkinCeuticals’ Pigment Balancing Peel as a professional cosmetic treatment. This is performed by trained beauticians who also provide recommendations for an appropriate follow-up care to achieve an optimal result. For more intensive effects, the most modern method is the fractionated laser. It can not only remove pigment spots, but red veins and wrinkles can be dealt with at the same time as well.… weiterlesen

Micro-Punctures Bring Great Results

Written by Margit Rüdiger on . Posted in Cream.

With Microneedling you simply roll away the signs of age Although our skin is capable of self-renewal well into old age, the cells become somewhat sluggish over time and require some stimulus to boost their natural potential for regeneration. Microneedling helps the tissues to renew themselves from the inside. Ultra-fine needles attached to a roller or a treatment head are used to treat the skin surface precisely and gently and without causing stress. The resulting micro-injuries stimulate cell growth and strengthen resilience. In this way, acne scars and small wrinkles can be alleviated, pores reduced and the first signs of skin aging gently smoothed away. The result is a rosy, fine-pored and softer complexion. “Although there are different forms of microneedling, they all pursue the same goal: regeneration and refinement of the skin,” says Winona Kallenbach, beautician and store manager at the Bellari Institute in Hamburg. With or without anesthesia? After thorough cleansing and disinfection of the skin, an anaesthetic cream can be applied locally for more sensitive customers. As a rule, however, the treatment can be carried out without anaesthesia. Following application of the cream, the skin must be disinfected again after which the selected areas are treated with either a Dermaroller or the Skin-Needler. There is no bleeding when the needling is carried out by a beautician, since the needles do not penetrate as deeply as they would when the treatment is performed by a doctor. Vitamin C increases the effect Kallenbach: “In order to take full advantage of the needling effect, a pre-treatment with care products containing Vitamin A and C is recommended”. These support the regeneration mechanisms of the skin in the formation of new collagen. If a vitamin C serum is applied directly after needling, it can penetrate the skin surface to a deeper level and develop its effect more efficiently. Depending on skin type, skin condition and requirement, a cooling mask, e.g. with hyaluronic acid, is then applied. If the irritation is more severe, a skin-soothing mask is used. The Importance of After Care For an optimal result, six sessions at intervals of one week are recommended. Normally no downtime is necessary following needling therapy by a beautician. There is only a temporary redness and a perceptible, if not visible skin exfoliation during the first few days. Sensitive patients in particular may possibly also develop small but harmless pustules. Increased protection of the skin against light should be observed for four weeks prior to and after micro-needling.… weiterlesen

Bellari – Walk in and Feel Beautiful

Written by Margit Rüdiger on . Posted in Cream.

Aesthetic and cosmetic treatments made to measure The Bellari concept was developed by Doctores Sonja and Gerhard Sattler of Darmstadt’s Rosenpark Klinik. These are institutes in which top class aesthetic medicine and professional cosmetics go hand in hand. In the C&C interview, Dr. Sonja Sattler explains the idea and her visions for the future: Please describe the Bellari concept. To be closer to patients, we wanted to bring to the city centers the aesthetic medicine which we have practiced successfully at the Rosenpark Klinik for many years. On the medical side, only minimal invasive treatments are carried out in the Bellaria, without operations such as those performed in the Rosenpark Klinik. The Bellaria institutes are always divided into two parts: The first is the cosmetic part, in the ground floor shop where there is a compact, high-quality range of care products. On the next level there is a medical area in the form of a private practice. How many locations are there so far? We opened the Bellari in Frankfurt, our flagship so to speak, in early 2016. In June 2016, the second one followed in Hamburg. Our goal is to expand the concept to eight locations in Germany. Later on we plan to open Bellaria in European metropoles such as London and Paris etc. How close is the connection to the Rosenpark Klinik? We bring the Rosenpark Klinik know-how to the institutes and offer a treatment concept which combines care and medicine. A doctor from the clinic is on hand at the Frankfurt institute every day, including Saturdays, and there are two permanent doctors in Hamburg, one of whom commutes between Hamburg and Frankfurt. I am in Frankfurt one or two days each week and in Hamburg twice a month. How did you come up with the name Bellari? We received professional advice in the naming process. We wanted to have a name that sounds beautiful, that fits our beauty concept, and which captures the imagination. My husband found that Bellari, like Armani, is an easy name to remember. What spectrum of treatment do you offer? In the medical field, in addition to advice on fillers, Botox and lasering, we offer non-incision body treatments such as cool sculpting. Treatments from skin diagnosis to various facials for Him and Her to eyebrow correction and a wide range of make-up are available in the cosmetic sector. Our highlight lies in the combining of different modern technologies.… weiterlesen

Professor Bader mobilizes Stem Cells

Written by Margit Hiebl on . Posted in Health & Beauty.

How a scientist intends to rejuvenate our skin Through and trough a scientist and a physician, that’s him. Beauty was not something that Professor Augustinus Bader used to be concerned with much – so far, that is. Being one of the leading scientists in stem-cell research, he has succeeded in finding a break-through development in the area of tissue-engineering. He has more than 200 patents under his belt. For example, Bader developed a hydro-gel that allows for the most serious burns to heal without scarring, and without the requirement of transplantations. This research led him to come up with the idea for an anti-aging care. Now, how does his technology translate onto wrinkles, pigmentation marks and impure skin? We spoke to Professor Bader about his new approach. Professor Bader, is this yet again another stem cell product? No, there is not a single stem-cell in my product. We did re-define the stem-cell technology, though. In order to understand this, we first have to do away with the existing myths. Which myths would that be? The first myth: “stem-cells need to be supplied to our body”. In fact, there is no shortage of stem cells in our body at all. They reside everywhere – they are not always active, though. A stem-cell is like a location-specific repair-cell. It has the task of repairing a defect at the given location. It is present but it needs to be activated – via an inflammation. Second: assuming that the magnitude of the injury influences the response behavior of the cell (meaning: “will I keep a scar or not“), there could be a connection to the lack of a semiochemical (the “messenger substance”). Replacing the latter will make our own stem-cell perform a perfect healing. I was able to implement this approach in the medical area for extremely serious burns. They can now heal within a few days without the need for any transplantation. And the third myth: “stem-cells in creams can have an effect.” Really? How would a stem-cell of an apple – as it is used for many products – support the human skin in any way? At most, it can create an apple. How did you arrive at this new approach? That happened while working on my clinical projects. The cells of the human body are highly specialized to carry out exactly those repairs that are required at the given time. Example: if I have a cut on my right hand, only exactly this will be repaired.… weiterlesen

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