Author: Margit Rüdiger

CultureAndCream Author from Munich To travel during my profession as a beauty journalist was never enough for my. Also my six month on a world trip didn't do it. It always attracts me to other cities, foreign countries, on roadtrips and places I don't know yet. But I am not only interested in "culture" and "cream", I am also fascinated by people who have stories to tell .  Such unique experiences I want to share with you.

Tested for you: Rosacea Cream „Redness Relief with Micreobalance“ from Gladskin

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Rosacea is known to be one of the most widespread skin problems. It is also called couperosis or copper rose or copper fin. It usually appears after the age of 30, more frequently in women than in men. The skin disease manifests itself differently in men than in women, often with a thickening of the connective tissue and the sebaceous glands, mostly around the nose area. Rosacea – typical signs I am one of the majority of women who have to struggle with rosacea – although I am still lucky. In my case, only the cheeks are affected, the left more than the right, and the rosacea is not particularly severe overall. It manifests itself in redness and dilated veins. This is typical for mild rosacea. The only problem is that once rosacea is present, it stays. In severe cases, vesicles can even form, and the redness and inflammatory pustules (see picture below) can sometimes extend to the eyelids. Fortunately, I have been spared from this so far. However, in winter when it is cold and the blood circulation is boosted by alcohol consumption, for example, which hardly ever happens with me anyway, the redness becomes more visible. I therefore no longer go to the sauna anyway, only to the steam bath. Unclear causes for the redness Where does rosacea come from? Experts are still arguing about this today. A combination of hereditary and environmental factors is discussed. But none of this has been scientifically proven. Bacteria and the composition of the skin’s microbiome most likely play a significant role in the development of rosacea. This can lead to inflammatory reactions such as redness, itching, pain and swelling. The bacterium Staphylococcus aureus is regarded as the primary culprit. Staphylococci are spherical bacteria that in themselves belong to the normal flora of skin and mucous membranes in humans. However, Staphylococcus aureus is the species with the highest virulence, responsible for inflammation and more. Dermatologists treat rosacea with antibiotics, among others. The only drawback is, antibiotics lead to antimicrobial resistance when taken for a long time and Staphylococcus aureus no longer responds to them. Help for my microbiome Swallowing antibiotics to get my rosacea under control is out of the question for me. And I really don’t suffer that much that I would put my body through that. That’s why I decided to test an over-the-counter product containing the active ingredient StaphefektTM, which kills only Staphylococcus aureus bacteria.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Eyebrow Wax “Brow Freeze” by Anastasia Beverly Hills

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My eyebrows are difficult to tame. The hairs are long and above all unruly, reluctant to be laid in a beautiful arch. And if it succeeds then times, they do not remain long in this form. That’s why I always admire this so-called “laminated brow look” of stars like Hailey Bieber. How do they do it? Eyebrow wax from Hollywood’s Brow Queen Now I know the secret and of course I want to try it myself. A new tool for this is the “Brow Freeze” from Anastasia Beverly Hills. Anastasia Soare, as her real name is, is considered THE brow queen of Hollywood since she opened her eyebrow showroom in Beverly Hills in 1997. Since then, she has continued to surprise the beauty world with smart products and eyeshadow palettes with artistically inspired colors. Her latest hype is “Brow Freeze,” which makes it easy to style the signature #AnastasiaBrows look at home. The eyebrow wax comes in a flat, round tin and is so transparent that it is almost invisible in the little pot. For application, I use the “Brow Freeze Applicator”, which has a spatula on one side and a brush on the other. You have to buy it separately, but it’s worth the expense. With spatula and brush The spatula makes it very easy to get the product out of the jar. You also need only a little of it. Actually, you should warm the product on the lid with the brush and then comb into the brows, so it says at least in the instructions. But since my brow hairs are so stubborn, I leave the mini portion of wax on the spatula and use it to press the hairs flat along the entire brow. Then I brush them into shape until the wax dries. The eyebrows get a wonderful shine and stay all day the way I brushed and fixed them in the morning. However, I don’t feel any of it, and that’s a good thing! The wax coats the eyebrows without weighing them down. TIP FROM ANASTASIA: After the eyebrows have been combed into the right place with the brush, go over the brows again with the spatula – this will keep the brows bombproof all day. Eyebrow correction with color Some days I like to add extra emphasis to my brows or make them look fuller, then I use an eyebrow pencil or powder before waxing.… weiterlesen

How useful is skin cycling for you?

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Skin Cycling – schon mal was davon gehört? Entwickelt hat das neue Pflege-Konzept die New Yorker Dermatologin Dr. Whitney Bowe. Innerhalb kürzester Zeit erreichte sie damit auf TikTok 3,5 Millionen User. Mit Cycling ist übrigens nicht Fahrradfahren gemeint, sondern ein Zyklus, eine sich wiederholende Routine bei der Anwendung von Power-Wirkstoffen während der Nacht. Hält man sich an ihr Skin Cycling-Konzept, verspricht Dr. Bowe eine besonders ebenmäßige Haut. Sie begründet es so: Bei dem Überangebot an Pflegeprodukten und ständig neuen, hoch gelobten Wirkstoffen kann es schnell passieren, dass man seine Haut überlegt und ihre Barriere schädigt. Eine intakte Barriere ist jedoch Grundvoraussetzung für ein schönes, klares Hautbild. Das Skin Cycling Programm ist auf einen viertägigen Rhythmus ausschließlich während der Nacht ausgerichtet. Warum nur nachts? Weil in den Nachtstunden die Stoffwechselfunktionen in der Haut besonders intensiv arbeiten. Die Haut wird stärker durchblutet und optimal mit Sauerstoff versorgt, wodurch sie die Aktivstoffe von Pflegeprodukten besser verwerten kann. Gut strukturiert Dr. Whitney Bowe sagt: „Ich habe als Dermatologin Tausende Patienten über mehr als ein Jahrzehnt behandelt. Dabei habe ich festgestellt, dass sie einen ihrer größten Pflegefehler nachts begehen, indem sie der Hautbarriere keine Möglichkeit geben, sich zu regenerieren.“ Sie bezeichnet ihr zyklisches Pflege-System als einen Wendepunkt für die Gesundheit der Haut. Und nicht zuletzt bringt man damit mehr Struktur in seine Pflege-Routine. Der Hauptaspekt beim Skin Cycling ist der, dass verhindert wird, die Hautbarriere durch eine Überfrachtung mit Wirkstoffen zu schädigen. Außerdem hilft es, eine konstante und effektive Routine zu entwickeln, die die Haut optimal funktionieren lässt. Das viertätige Konzept ist simpel durchzuführen: An zwei Nächten werden Wirkstoff-Produkte aufgetragen, gefolgt von zwei Nächten ohne. Dann wird das Ganze wiederholt. Auf diese Weise wird die Haut trotz des Einsatzes von Power-Wirkstoffen in Balance gehalten. Denn die Haut, gerade wenn sie unter Akne, Rosazea, Ekzemen oder Hyperpigmentierung leidet, profitiert von diesen potenten Inhaltsstoffen ganz besonders. Doch genau wie Muskeln eine Trainingspause brauchen, geht es auch den Hautzellen. “Weniger ist mehr“ lautet deshalb das Credo von Dr. Bowe. Sie verfolgt den Ansatz, Produkte so zu verwenden, dass sie sich gegenseitig ergänzen anstatt mehrere übereinander zu schichten. Das 4-Tage-Konzept mit Skin Cycling: Nacht 1 mit Peeling: Zuerst wird die Haut gereinigt. Am intensivsten gelingt es mit einer Zwei-Phasen-Reinigung, die aus Öl und einem anschließenden Gel besteht. Mit Gesichtswasser abschließen. Dann folgt ein chemisches Peeling, um Unreinheiten vorzubeugen. Bowe rät ab von körnigen Peelings. Sie seien zu scharf für die Haut, warnt sie.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Color Stick „Nudies All Over Face Matte“ from Nudestix

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Color stick as a multitasking tool. I love practical beauty utensils that perform several tasks at once. That’s exactly what the Nudies from Nudestix do. At first glance, the handy twist pens look like a normal blush stick. But they can do more. They can be applied to cheeks, but also to lips and eyelids. So they are real multifunctional talents. Packed are all color sticks from Nudestix, whether Face Matte, Face Bloom or Face Glow, in a pretty little black box -naturally matte – with a handy mirror in the lid. Color stick for blush & glow The handling is child’s play. While one end of the stick is equipped with the vegan color stick, at the other end sits a short, dense makeup brush – almost like a mini Kabuki – for perfect distribution of the color. So I twist the color stick out of the sleeve a bit and apply it to the highest point of my cheekbones. I also give it a kick under the hairline and on the tip of the chin to sculpt the face a bit. If you want the nose to appear even narrower, you also apply a little color along the bridge of the nose. Blend carefully It is important to blend the color with the brush so that no edges remain visible. I find this works best with circular movements. Especially at the hairline and chin, there should only be a hint of color. From the temples, I smudge the blush to under the brow arches, which intensifies the look. Super at the matte Nudies is that the color not only appears beautiful matte when applied, it also remains so throughout the day. Three good reasons, why I really like the Nudies in the shade “Naughty N’ Spice”: because it is so beautifully matte because it is a multitasking balm because it is practical for on the go with the integrated brush „Nudies All Over Face Matte“ in Naughty N’ Spice from Nudestix, US$ 35… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Lip Mask “Plush Puddin’ Intensive Recovery Lip Mask” from Fenty Skin

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For launching a lip mask it is exactly the right time. Because the winter season with cold outdoors and heating air indoors not infrequently gives us rough, chapped lips. Against this, there is now a clean, vegan and animal-free solution from the Fenty Skin line. It’s the cosmetics brand that superstar Rihanna developed in collaboration with Kendo Brands, which in turn belongs to the luxury group LVMH. “I’m really into the little aspects of the skincare ritual. A lip care routine is fun, but also so important to keep that pout healthy, hydrated and sexy. Plush Puddin’ is the ultimate self-care for lips that I use every day and night.” – Rihanna Lip mask with tropical power The “Plush Puddin’ Intensive Recovery Lip Mask” promises not only smoother, but also plumper lips in a week. It contains mainly tropical moisturizing ingredients such as coconut and castor oil, pomegranate and jojoba oil complex, pomegranate sterols and Barbados cherry extract, which each play an important care role in their own right: Pomegranate and jojoba oil are rich in antioxidants. They provide tone and elasticity, and are even said to make the lips visibly plumper with regular use. Vitamin E is included as another antioxidant, which revitalizes and nourishes the lips. Pomegranate sterols provide a natural, vegan alternative to lanolin, binding 200 percent of their weight in water. As a result, the moisture barrier of the lips improves and hydration is increased. Coconut and castor oils also act as rich moisturizers. The extract from the Barbados cherry (acerola) contains more vitamin C than an orange. It strengthens and nourishes the skin of the lips. Delicious pudding for the lips In fact, the rich, pudding-like texture of “Plush Puddin'”-what the name promises is delivered! – the lips with a noticeable moisture boost. I prefer to apply the lip mask overnight, then the lips are smooth and soft the next day. Pleasant is also the slight taste of vanilla. I think the packaging is ingeniously designed. The small, powder-colored jar made of 100 percent PCR material is closed all around. If you unscrew the lid and turn the base slightly to the right, the dispenser releases exactly the right amount needed for a lip application. It’s a clean and efficient solution. You no longer have to fumble around in little pots, which soon become unsightly and you usually do get too much of the texture after all.… weiterlesen

Dry Shampoo Instead Of Washing Your Hair?

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Gegen Bad Hair Days gibt es nichts Besseres als Trockenshampoo. Keine Diskussion. Der weiße Puder schenkt den Haaren Grip und Volumen und bringt platte Ansätze sofort wieder zum Stehen. Allerdings hört man immer wieder, Dry Shampoo würde der Kopfhaut schaden und Allergien auslösen. Bloße Spaßverderber oder ist wirklich es dran an den Gerüchten? Trockenshampoos sind für mich unverzichtbar. Kein anderes Beauty-Produkt ist so praktisch und zeitsparend. Es ersetzt zumindest eine Haarwäsche, saugt wie ein Löschblatt überschüssiges Fett von der Kopfhaut. Die Haare sehen im Handumdrehen wieder frisch aus, die Frisur hat Halt und Volumen. Was will man mehr! Das gleicht kein noch so perfekt geschminktes Make-up aus, wenn die Haare platt und mit fettigen Ansätzen am Kopf kleben. Als Alternative geht dann nur noch Joe Cockers Tipp: leave your hat on! Trockenshampoo: Was ist drin? Die typischen Inhaltsstoffe der Sprüh- oder Schütt-Puder sind Silikate (Salze) und Stärke-Mischungen, die oft aus Reis oder Mais gewonnen werden. Sie nehmen den überschüssigen Talg von der Kopfhaut und den fettigen Ansätzen und schließen ihn ein. Das ist der Grund, warum die Haare sofort wie gewaschen aussehen. An diesen Inhaltsstoffen ist nichts problematisch. Hinzu kommen können Duftstoffe, Alkohol, Treibgase, Filmbildner, Talkum und Konservierungsmittel. Wer sehr empfindlich ist und eine extrem trockene Kopfhaut hat, sollte sein Trockenshampoo mit Hilfe einer Produkte-Check-App (z.B. Codecheck) überprüfen. Die gibt genaue Auskunft, welche Stoffe er besser meiden sollte. Aber kann ein Trockenshampoo tatsächlich Haarbruch, Juckreiz, Schuppen oder gar Haarausfall verursachen, wie man immer wieder mal liest? Dazu sagt L’Oreal-Ambassador und Haar-Profi Manfred Kraft: „Trockenshampoo schadet nicht, wenn man es maximal zweimal pro Woche bis zur nächsten Wäsche anwendet.“ Nur wer es öfter oder gar täglich benutzt und die Veranlagung dazu hat, trocknet seine Kopfhaut damit zu stark aus. „Zudem könnten die Talgdrüsen angeregt werden, vermehrt Talg zu produzieren“, so der Experte. Trockenshampoo ist kein Reinigungsprodukt Eines muss man allerdings klarstellen: Trocken-Puder sind kein Ersatz für ein Styling-Produkt und noch weniger für eine echte Haarwäsche. Frauen, die dem Trockenshampoo ihre irritierte Kopfhaut und ausgetrocknete Haare bis hin zum Haarbruch anlasten, haben meist ganz auf die reinigende Wäsche verzichtet mit der Begründung, dass häufiges Haarewaschen ja schädlich für das Haar sei. Aber Trockenshampoo ist nun mal kein Reinigungsprodukt, auch wenn der Name auf eine falsche Fährte führen könnte. Trockenshampoo absorbiert lediglich das Fett und beseitigt das strähnige Aussehen der Haare. Es entfernt weder Öl noch Schmutzreste von der Kopfhaut, wie das ein Scrub plus Shampoo und Wasser erfüllen.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: „Body Cream“ from Feuerstein

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New body cream from the Swiss beauty brand. This care line is more than just a high-quality natural cosmetics. It combines in its products the perfect blend of natural ingredients with active ingredients from modern cosmetic research. Refined with harmonious fragrances, it is a feel-good brand that contributes to inner balance. Natural cosmetics from the Engadine The Feuerstein brand has its origins in the Engadine and the ancestral knowledge of the soothing effect of the tart alpine herbs. At the beginning of the 20th century, the Grisons explorer and photographer Domenic Feuerstein recorded his impressions of the local nature with its plants in numerous books and poems. In 2005, his granddaughter Madlaina Feuerstein designed the first line of her natural cosmetics in S-charl. The former miners’ settlement is located at 1800 meters in the municipality of Scuol. Surrounded by pine forests, mountain meadows and steep peaks, the remote village is now only inhabited in summer. “We take people on a daily sensory journey to their inner sources of strength. Nature is our guide.”— Mara Wulkan, owner In 2019, Mara and Oliver Wulkan took over the Feuerstein brand. But the values have remained the same for over 19 years. The company is still headquartered in Engadine, and all products are still processed exclusively from sustainable raw materials in Switzerland. Luxurious body cream The first thing that caught my attention was the look of the body cream. The flat, round glass jar with a black lid looks clean and high quality, but is made of 100% recycled glass. Then come the sensory qualities. The “Body Cream” is not a plain body cream, but a rich butter in texture. It feels creamy and nourishing on the skin thanks to shea butter, mango butter and an oil extracted from the sweet almond (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil), which has skin-protecting and antioxidant properties. Even rough and brittle areas like on the knees or elbows become velvety soft again. Even my very dry skin on the lower legs has lost its winter “gray haze”. For me, the body cream from Feuerstein is the ideal product from neck to toe – especially in the winter, when the dry air and thick clothes clog the skin. The slightly fruity scent additionally increases the feel-good moment. Oh yes, and the cream is absorbed super fast and it is vegan as well. „Body Cream“ from Feuerstein , 200 ml, 72 Euro… weiterlesen

Polyphenols, The Secret Power Of Olives

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Everyone always talks about vitamins, minerals and trace elements when it comes to health and healthy nutrition. But polyphenols, i.e. secondary plant compounds, have much more power. What hardly anyone knows is that they are particularly abundant in olive press water, whose health aspect was only researched a few years ago. Secondary plant compounds, as the name suggests, are found exclusively in plants. Polyphenols are the most important group. They are mainly found in the marginal layers of fruits, vegetables and grains, where they provide the color and flavor of the food. But that is by no means all. These bioactive substances mainly serve as a defense against pests and insects and offer the plant protection against UV light. Whole grains, vegetables and many fruits, including olives or berries, are particularly abundant in polyphenols. “Under the term polyphenols, scientists summarize a variety of substances,” explains Sabine Häberlein, graduate nutritionist (Dipl. oec. troph.) and herbal expert (essen-einfach-anders.de) in Munich. “Common to them is a chemical structure: the phenol ring. To these secondary plant materials count for example also the Flavanoid Quercetin (particularly much contained in yellow onions and in kale). the flavanoids anthocyanins (red fruits and vegetables), phenolic acids (kale, whole wheat), hydroxycinnamic acid caffeic acid (coffee, potato, lemon balm), curcumin (turmeric), capsaicin (chili), coumarins (woodruff, cassia cinnamon) and phytoestrogens (soybeans, cereals, red clover).” Acqua mora as the Italians call it However, it is not the olive itself that contains the largest proportion of the power substance, but the vegetation water that is produced during pressing or oil production. In the past, it was disposed of as a waste product. Gianni from the Lo Franco family, who founded the Fattoria La Vialla near Arezzo and thus introduced biodynamic farming to Italy, says: “Our most important discovery was that the otherwise unnoticed vegetation water of the olives is not a waste product of oil production, but a valuable, very healthy by-product. Our great-grandmother Caterina always knew that. She liked to tell how good the olive water did her, the dark and bitter ‘acqua mora’ as it is called in Italy.” Bitter elixir of health Every year from mid-October to early December, the oil mill at the Fattoria never stands still. Day and night the freshly harvested olives are pressed within 6-12 hours. For some years now, the vegetation water from the olives and their pit is collected during pressing. A centrifuge separates it from the oil.… weiterlesen

Aesthetics Trend Report: “The Future of Aesthetics“

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Profound changes in global society are also having an impact on beauty. Insights into the future of beauty are provided by the new trend report from Allergan Aesthetics entitled “The Future of Aesthetics,” in which Leonard Nenad Josipovic, MD, specialist in plastic and aesthetic surgery, contributed as an expert. Aesthetics in transition. Leonard Nenad Josipovic says, “From the dissolution of gender identities to the metaverse, in the Trends Report we see how aesthetic medicine reflects and embraces the evolution of society and becomes a trend driver itself.” The report is based on interviews with the world’s leading experts in aesthetic medicine, as well as extensive research and analysis of market, industry and media reports, consumer and social media data. Goodbye to the gender division Since 2018, it has been possible to enter a third gender on an identity card in Germany. Stars such as Demi Lovato, Elliot Page or Sam Smith publicly describe themselves as non-binary or trans, series such as “Queer Eye” are conquering the screens and the LGBTQ movement is shaking up the previous understanding of the roles of men and women. Society is becoming more inclusive, and gender divisions are becoming less important. Particularly among younger Gen Z: 8 out of 10 respondents in a 2020 study said they believe gender no longer defines a person as much as it used to. This upheaval in society is also causing a change in the beauty industry. While the image of beauty in aesthetic medicine was previously often based on the dichotomy of male/female, more and more doctors and clinics are consciously dispensing with this gender distinction. “For me, it is not relevant in a treatment whether patients* are male or female, non-binary or transgender or completely indeterminate,” confirms Dr. Josipovic. “The focus is on the person with their personality – and how we can accentuate their individual beauty.” Companies like Allergan Aesthetics are already addressing patients* in a gender-inclusive way and with one voice. This will only intensify: beauty is breaking free of gender stereotypes, gender boundaries and gendered beauty clichés. Beauty becomes more flexible and mutable Rigid facial expressions, bodies that look like plastic, unnatural or doll-like looks – these are yesterday’s images of beauty. The aesthetics of the future no longer has fixed definitions. Instead, it’s “Spot on!” to the individual idea of beauty – which can also be quite changeable. “Wishes, needs and also the bodies of patients* change over time,” says the expert.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Self Tanning Spray “Antioxidant Face Tanning Micromist” by Coco&Eve

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A self tanning spray, which has just come on the market, has aroused my curiosity. I never use makeup, but always use self-tanner when I feel too pale – like now in winter. In my bathroom cabinet already lives a respectable collection of tanning products, but among them there is so far no spray for the face that has really convinced me. What distinguishes the “Antioxidant Face Tanning Micromist” from Coco & Eve: It contains not only natural tanning ingredients, but also antioxidants and moisturizing substances. The “Antioxidant Complex” is said to have rejuvenating and firming properties. It is said to boost collagen production by 93 percent, support antioxidation by 50 percent and reduce inflammation by 59 percent. Self tanning spray with care competence “HyalurosmoothTM” is an active ingredient cocktail of plant extracts similar to hyaluronic acid, which is said to increase the skin’s moisture content by 40 percent in just 30 minutes and moisturize four times more effectively than conventional hyaluronic acid. Also included in the self tanning spray are Balinese plant extracts from Coco&Eve’s home country such as passion fruit, which is known to be an effective moisturizer and smoothing agent for the skin. Watermelon provides the cells with rich beta-carotene nutrients, while coconut further supports the skin with moisture. The innovative Micromist technology ensures even distribution and the optimal action of the ingredients. It actually releases a very fine spray mist at the “touch of a button”, which covers the skin like a delicate veil. A pleasant feeling, as I could determine during my test. But one after the other… My spray test The first thing I do is clean my face and neck. As a precaution, I protect my hair with a headband. Not that afterwards my silver-gray strands at the hairline are yellowish discolored. Better safe than sorry. Shake the bottle well, the instructions say, and off you go. For an even distribution of the self tanning spray I spray with 20 centimeters distance three times with closed eyes over face and neck. However, none of the texture should get into the eyes. If it does, rinse with plenty of clean water. Anyway, after spraying my skin feels quite moist, but commendably nothing of the transparent liquid runs. 30 seconds you are supposed to let it soak in. I better wait a few minutes before moving on to subsequent skincare. Yes, it’s true. This is also extraordinary for a self tanner.… weiterlesen

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